Airwolf3d HD2X profile

[dennisjm]

I didn't find one of these on here so after a couple days testing mine I thought I'd share what I came up with:

airwolf3d.fff

(9.43 KiB) Downloaded 947 times

Issues:
* when you level the bed it's homed to 0 but if you then add a .2mm gap ( or .1 or whatever) and your starting layer is .2 you end up with a .4mm gap when the print starts. This took me a while to figure out why I couldn't get prints to stick and work correctly w/ s3d. Solution was in the start code I set the Z position to whatever I leveled the bed to after it homes. The the layer 1 accuracy for the print is spot on.
* Build area on X axix is 280mm but I set the size in the profile to 300. This is because the left extruder can move from 0-280 and the right from 20-300. So whichever extruder you're printing with you have to ensure the object fits within the bounds that extruder can reach. I noticed this fairly quickly as I have some really big objects to print (one of the reasons I picked up this printer.)
* There is only one temperature controller for the extruders because they use the same heating block. What this means is that if you're only printing w/ one extruder, the other is still sitting there hot boiling your filament. I think this is just a con on this printer but I guess the best you can do is pull the other filament out of the extruder while printing. There will still be a bit of plastic in there but hopefully you can just push it all out next time you switch extruders. (Haven't figured out how I'm going to deal with PVA.... )

Anyway, any improvements, suggestions are very welcome. Still new to this printer but I've got to the point I can print some objects with S3D now.

[KeyboardWarrior]

I made some changes, added Nylon and PVA back in. Changed the build size to 280 for simplicity, and changed the starting/ending G-Code a little bit. Changed extrusion multipliers and temperatures a bit too. Let me know what you think.

[dennisjm]

I'll check it out. I've made a number of changes as well but haven't been ready to share.

A couple things I've worked on though:
- created a 2nd profile because one of my nozzle is .35 instead of .5.
- changed 2nd profile gcode for right extruder.
- removed the z axis 0 at .16 command and instead when leveling set up the autoleveler to go to whatever height I'm leveling at.

I guess it is ok to use 280 instead of 300 but I'm not sure it's actually simpler. For instance, if you place an object on the edge of the build plate on the left but you're using the right extruder you'll hit the stop sensor. Perhaps there is a way to fix this with extruder offsets so that you can get the object on the printable part of the plate. In fact, now that I think about it we should really set the build plate to 260 and use offsets somehow I think. But with it at 300 and using both extruders it just forces me to think about where the extruders are located but also lets me use the full build plate.

I think as far as extrusion multipliers everyone is just going to have to find their own depending on whatever material they've purchased. Not bad to have additional starting points in the profile though.

Thanks for your input.

[dennisjm]

In tuning these profiles, I've not had great luck getting a nice wall finish. Do any of you with the hd2x mind sharing how fast you're printing your outer walls? Iv'e tried as low as about 25mm/s and a .2 layer height but the walls are just not great quality. I tried slower on a couple small parts but it didn't seem to make any difference. Slower on a larger part and I'm impatient I guess, the parts are already 25 hour prints. I've been trying with the white PLA. It's certainly not anything like the video on their website that shows a blue PLA dragon. I talked to their tech support about it and they said there was a firmware update coming out that should address wall quality directly. Haven't seen the firmware yet but that raises the question about how they printed the nice looking PLA dragon then?? Anyway, tips appreciated.

[ldewhurst]

Hi all,

Cheers for the .fff profile at the top of this thread.

I have an HDx;
printing from SD card - as we have had trouble with the printer stuttering when controlled over serial cable.
0.35 nozzle
running 0.15mm layer heights at 230C (from profile)
30mm/sec printing speed
attached photos used the profile (attached) and included a raft to test the settings, and support material

support material; releases the part well
0.3mm gap
cross hatch pattern
2mm overlap with edge of part

Build platform;
- we are using PET film, with a layer of glue stick applied.
- I have not yet tackled the automatic leveling

problem:
- The side walls are fantastic, but the layer adhesion isn't great. We were using 250C for printing, I am going to split hairs and go for 238C and will post again.
- the top layer of the part is printing at the same speed at the infill, and is leaving holes in the top/bottom. Is there a way to slow down just the outer top/bottom surface of the part, as I am currently slowing the entire print for the next trial and it has doubled the run time.
- I also increased the density of the infill, and set the length limit of an infill strand to 0.4mm not 5mm.

update: the current print is going much better, but is now essentially solid. If anyone has an idea how I can make the infill in the part more sparse without effecting the surface quality I would love to know.

[dennisjm]

You can slow add more top layers with a sparser infill. Increasing layer height slightly might help. Layers should be a multiple of .02 I learned from the Airwolf Techs. (i.e., .14 or .16 ok but not .15)

[ldewhurst]

Cheers Dennisjm - great help

The top is now looking immaculate.
- layer thickness 0.14mm
- 6 top, 6 bottom, and 2 wall layers
- increased the extrusion rate to 135%
- increased the infill overlap with the outer profile (now 40%)

The bottom surface of the part is still looping quite badly
- does anyone have some advice on tailoring the support structure?

I'll post up my updated profile & photos soon for reference.

Once I get ABS nailed, I'm going to have a jam on PC and TPU.

[dennisjm]

I was glad to see hd2x profiles in 2.2..

I decided to test them out directly instead of my versions. Here is one thing that was a must change though:

Code: Select all

M140 S[bed0_temperature]; set bed temperature
G28 Z; home Z
G1 Z20 F900; T0
 Move Z down 20 mm
G28 X Y F900; Move XY
M190 S[bed0_temperature]; wait for bed to reach target
M109 S[extruder0_temperature]; wait for extruder to heat
G28 Z; Re-home Z
G92 Z.10 F225; Slight move for Z
G1 E5 F100; purge right; <- Changed these settings to be a little more conservative
G92 E0; reset virtual position

The default start code had E15 F900 which I found was a lot extra and very much too fast purge. At 900 it usually just did a mouse bite on the filament.

Other than that it seems to be working just fine.

[dennisjm]

Forgot the change to abs vs relative coords on the extrusion.

Should be:

G91; switch to relative
G1 E5 F100; purge
G90; switch back to absolute
G92 E0; reset to 0

[RedWolf3773]

I just made the switch to S3D on my Airwolf3d HDX from Repitier Host and Cura. The only factory profile is for the HD2X in ver 2.2. I can tweak it an delete the second extruder. Do i need to change any other settings to get the correct nozzle position since I only have one nozzle on the HDX?

I see you guys listed some of you profiles. Any luck with an up to date one for ABS and PLA? Nylon would be great as well.

Thanks!