Simplify3D User Forum

MikeO

Or you could try just dropping most of your to-be-printed object down below the build surface, so S3D will be starting the printing at the level just before you get to the problem area. I don't know your part's structure, so that may not work, but I've done that during testing and it's a big time-sa...

MikeO

I print with PETG on a PEI bed (TAZ5 printer), and PETG really wants to bond to the PEI surface. So for me to use it with PEI I have two choices: 1) Use a very thin glue layer, which can be dissolved away after printing with water or isopropyl alcohol (IPA). That way any direct adhesion between PETG...

MikeO

A couple of thoughts: 1) If you enclose the printing area -- even with a simple cardboard shield around the printer -- it'll help hold in the heat from the bed and will *reduce* the problem. Be careful not to include the electronics control box in the heated area, though! And there are limits to how...

MikeO

Are you by any chance running 1.75 mm filament in a printer intended for 3.0 mm filament?

That's the only way I can figure you'd have room in the hot end for the filament to spiral that way.

MikeO

For what it's worth: I've had the problem of corrupted .fff files a number of times. It seemed to me that the files got corrupted only when I opened them in the main screen to look at or change parameters *while* my printer was printing (I always print via USB, on Windows 7). Since I've started comp...

MikeO

From my experience: Use 3 solid layers on the bottom, so the brightest part of the image will have that much under it to support it at a minimum, for strength. Use 100% infill for the remaining layers. Depending on the transparency of your filament, distribute the image on top of the bottom layers o...

MikeO

I'm guessing you need to update your serial-port driver to match the protocols your printer is expecting. I had a similar problem when I installed S3D on a new PC. I don't know which driver you need to install, but it might be a good thing to Google your printer model and "serial driver" a...

MikeO

P.S.: You've probably figured this out yourself (it took me *way* too long to start doing it, but I'm slow), but in case not: When troubleshooting a problem near the top of a long print, "submerging" most of the model below the print surface as S3D lets you do gives you a relatively quick ...

MikeO

I agree with Doug. When I see that type of warping I immediately add support, manually if need be, and it fixes the problem. My view of what happens is this: 1) As the extruder nozzle passes over the unsupported section, the pressure of the extruding plastic forces the unsupported piece down somewha...

MikeO

I agree. I had that problem and it turned out to be a corrupted profile that messed up the storage in the Windows Registry. Exporting all of the profiles I cared about, then doing the Reset All Settings fixed it for me. It'll also erase all your stored profiles, which is why you need to save them fi...

Search found 32 matches

Re: Getting Rid of Blobs With PETG?

Re: Struggling with a large flat base in ABS

Re: Struggling with a large flat base in ABS

Re: Nozzle jams before print can finish

Re: Reset corrupt FFF profile

Re: Lithophane

Re: Connection Issue

Re: Keep knocking a print off the bed. warping collisions.

Re: Keep knocking a print off the bed. warping collisions.

Re: Simplify3D stops working