You'll need accurate 3D data of the print head assembly for every printer supported by the software, plus an accurate model of the component you wish to avoid. Just make the pocket for your hinge deep enough that it is completely inserted - and then print over. If anyone were to modify their print h...

When I was referring to too much heat, I meant everything except the nozzle temperature. Make sure you have all your cooling options at 100% and good air flow in/around the printer and the part.

Looks like things are running too hot. I run PLA with all the cooling I can get on the part, doors open on the printer (mine is enclosed) and top removed - mine is also in the garage so the ambient temp is low during the winter. You might try a fan blowing at the machine to help. I don't run much PL...

What material are you using?

Looks like you're printing on a raft. Reduce the separation distance to improve the bond between the print and the raft.

Looks like they mean layer thickness.

I agree with Doug - the number of self-righteous whiners on this forum is pretty astounding. I'm looking forward to seeing v5 - S3D is my go-to slicer for most stuff.

Here's my favorite office Christmas decoration - vase-mode printed in clear PETG with a 1mm nozzle using S3D.

If you want the outer two perimeters at a finer layer height with a smaller nozzle and the inner perimeters and infill with the 1mm nozzle, you'd need to print as two separate models - the skin (two fine perimeters thick) that gets the fine layer height and then the rest of the model would print fat...

Of the options you list, a rectangular marquee selection would be my last choice. Whether a lasso or a paint brush sort of functionality I don't think I have a preference without test driving the implementation.

Looks like something in the start script. My machines don't do that.