Guys, I have a FF Creator Pro and it like to pause between switching extruders. That dwell is really not needed. The problem is that it even pauses on the base layer. Without doing the lift off the layer first. This creates some lifting of the layers as these are the end of a thinner printed part. I...
I find for simple supports, that I get much more control to just model them myself at the same time as the part file. Exact support where I want it an no waste.
I will mention that for me, watching all the short video tutorials got me up and running very fast with S3D. Many many questions are answered right there. Many answers to questions like this are directly related to the video title. That means you don't really need to watch them all. Just the ones yo...
I would rather see something like a paintbrush used to paint the model with where you do want supports rather than removing them all after the fact. Along with this I would like to see a halo or ghost of the actual supports as it will be simulated or the auto reopening of the support panel when you ...
I used to use the same to weld true Pet G to polycarbonate. I also used #16 which comes in a tube and is thicker. More like plastic model cement of the good old days. You have to let it sit for a full 24 hours to cure, but it worked well for us. I have used #16 to bond printed Pet G to itself with g...
Every filament will be different. It is good practice to get a baseline for your filament now. Print out some calibration prints. Smaller the better because it allows you to see the results and accomplish calibration faster. Different colors from the same brand may need to be tweaked some too.
I get away with lower bed temps. 65C works great for me. Glue stick on glass with two machines. My FFCP has the OEM bed. No glue stick. Cheaper Pet G uses about 235 C extrude temp. Better stuff prints better a little higher like 245 to 250 C. I imagine the color has something to do with it as well. ...