For a direct filament drive (i.e. non-Bowden), I never run retraction much over 1 mm. I'd make a test model (a cylinder works well), and play with that for a start. You may also need to add a tiny amount of extra restart distance (I typically use -0.1 mm) to get it really smooth. It will never be pe...

So, any updates on when the upgrade is coming out? It's October, and back in February, S3D said "later this year". It's getting pretty later... I (and many others) have put in feature requests that have not been included in Version 4. Unless 5.0 comes out soon, I'm going to bite the bullet and try t...

Clint, First of all, THANK YOU! This is an incredible bit of work, and even after 2 years of playing with S3D, I learned a lot. If I may, I'd like to make a couple suggestions for additional details the next time you get bored... The section on cooling doesn't mention issues with modern fans. They u...

Update #2: Changing the retraction from 1 mm to 0.8 mm, and the extra restart distance from -0.1 mm to 0 seems to have fixed it. The green is definitely stringier than the red, and I may drop the temperature a bit to try and address that, but it's good enough at the moment for the first models I nee...

The problem is that the first wall is too thin. They other 3 are spot on. It's related to my retraction settings. I had "force retraction on Layer change" turned on. If I turn that off, I get 4 walls of nearly identical thickness. However, when it does retract when printing a model, the first 14 mm ...

I just switched from red eSun PLA+ filament to a new spool of "pine" green. I always run a single wall 20 mm calibration cube when I switch filaments to set my extrusion multiplier. The red test cube had the last 3 walls right at 0.40 mm (measured in the middle of each wall), with the first wall at ...

PLA absorbs moisture. If it soaks up enough, it cooks out when you extrude it and makes a mess.

You can dry it out in an oven, but you need to be careful to let the oven get to temperature before you put the filament in.

https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-dry-filamen ... and-nylon/

I have a print that its going to take about 8-10 hours, and I need to make about 10 of them. I've been looking into ways to speed things up, and ran across this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kW9SnK4LKc At about 9:30, he's discussing his speed settings. The thing that really jumped out at m...

Yet another vote fort cubic infill. Due to the required print orientation, the model I'm printing now will be weaker than it could be with sparser infill. With S3D, I'm running increased infill for strength, which means it's taking more time & more filament.

Thanks for the ideas. It hadn't occurred to me to modify the CAD model. Adding cooling didn't make much difference good or bad. No issues with warping, but the defects remain. I'm already printing the first layer quite slowly, from outside to inside. I think adding perimeters is just going to increa...