Flashforge Creator3

[JoshuaYates]

Tried the fff config however it appears (at least for me) the duplicate printing is trending to the left. So what happens is that either though it appears ok in flashprint the left hand side of the right extruder print, prints over the top of the right hand side of the left extruder print.

Can you point me where I need to change x y setting to push the prints into their right areas of the build plate?

To elaborate on what I eluded to earlier, unless you accurately reproduce the "calpads" that FlashPrint is putting into their files you will see that this overlapping of the build area for left and right print heads occurs consistently. I've emailed with FlashForge Support about it. It's the calpads that are missing from S3D generated prints.

...This hasn't been tested on large models.

Just place a small model in the centre of the build plate and slice from their. Once you are happy with how it works, play around with different sizes and positions to see if there are any limits.

Simplify3D doesn't provide support for duplication and mirror modes. The Creator 3 firmware requires a specific feature that is only present in FlashPrint in order to properly orient duplication mode parts.

Download the profile I have attached to this reply. This contains the version 2 profile. My original version 1 profile has the issues you mentioned which might be what you are still using.

[JoshuaYates]

Image 1 shows the model sliced inside S3D.

Image 2 shows the gcode viewed by flashprint.

Image 3 shows the calibration pad being made.

[JoshuaYates]

Image 4 shows both nozzles getting into position.

Image 5 shows the model being printed correctly with both nozzles having half the build plate each.

Image 6 shows what you should be able to see in the starting script and additional commands.

[JoshuaYates]

Image 7 shows the gcode file with the included calpad gcode included from the profile.

This is all done using the attached version 2 profile.

The software does not show the calpad being made. Not sure why although it does work fine.

If you use the profile and you are having results different from the images then please send over a gcode file and I will see if something is missing.

[DarthRevan]

Download the profile I have attached to this reply. This contains the version 2 profile. My original version 1 profile has the issues you mentioned which might be what you are still using.

Thanks, I'll give it a try!

[Rob65]

So, What about a regular profile for printing in 2 colors/materials or support material.
Reason we bought the machine is for printing with support material and mixing ridig/flex in one print.

Needless to say I don't want to use FlashPrint ...

Regards,

Rob

[S3D-Jake]

Hi rob,

The standard S3D profile includes printing configurations for standard dual prints. Have you downloaded the latest profile from Help > Configuration Assistant?

So, What about a regular profile for printing in 2 colors/materials or support material.
Reason we bought the machine is for printing with support material and mixing ridig/flex in one print.

Needless to say I don't want to use FlashPrint ...

Regards,

Rob

[UnRealWoody]

I am considering adding this printer as another production printer. What are your opinions on it so far?

Thanks.

It includes some annoying safety features that would cause me to not recommend it for a production environment printer. Most frustrating of them would be the fact that back to back prints will include a ton of downtime for the printer waiting on the nozzles and bed to cool down before being allowed to heat up for the next print.

Hmm. I think the cool down won't bother me too much. My larger printers are usually doing long running prints and the time between prints can be a day or two of down time!
I do a lot of ABS on my larger ones so I do wait for those prints to completely cool before removing anyway.

Thanks for any insight on this printer though.

For the cost of it I would have to justify the IDEX system. The only real use I would have for it at this point would be for soluble supports but I don't know it that is worth it.

I have a Creator 3 aswell. It does not actually need to cool down the bed, just the right hand nozzle needs to be below 50 C before it starts a new print, as it does a refinding of 0 for the Z-axis on each print (which is good if you have an additional mirror bed for certain matterials)

I am running into a few issue with it when it comes to dual color printing, as it seems that one nozzle prints a few millimeters off from the other one. I am trying to work with Flashforge right now to resolve the issue, but so far im only getting finger pointing from them to whatever they can think of.

I really like the printer so far, but it does have some issues for sure. PM me if you like more information on it.

[UnRealWoody]

Tried the fff config however it appears (at least for me) the duplicate printing is trending to the left. So what happens is that either though it appears ok in flashprint the left hand side of the right extruder print, prints over the top of the right hand side of the left extruder print.

Can you point me where I need to change x y setting to push the prints into their right areas of the build plate?

To elaborate on what I eluded to earlier, unless you accurately reproduce the "calpads" that FlashPrint is putting into their files you will see that this overlapping of the build area for left and right print heads occurs consistently. I've emailed with FlashForge Support about it. It's the calpads that are missing from S3D generated prints.

Simplify3D doesn't provide support for duplication and mirror modes. The Creator 3 firmware requires a specific feature that is only present in FlashPrint in order to properly orient duplication mode parts.

Download the profile I have attached to this reply. This contains the version 2 profile. My original version 1 profile has the issues you mentioned which might be what you are still using.

Did anybody ever make a mirror FFF file for this printer? if so, where can i download it?

[JoshuaYates]

I believe if you want mirror mode, change the D2 value to D1 at the end of the M118 line.