I apologize if this is already a feature That I haven't found yet. I wonder if it would be possible to set a scallop height for the outer layer while maintaining a larger layer height for infill and any inner layers. This would allow the best visual quality while maintaining strength and print speed.
For example If I am running a 0.4 mm nozzle and I set a 0.06mm scallop height on straight vertical walls the printer would print 2 layers at 0.12mm for the outer shell and then run the inner shells and infill at 0.24mm and when it reaches a radius or angled wall it could change to 3 layers at 0.08mm while still printing all internal layers at 0.24mm .
(A scallop height would be the depth of the ridges created by the layer lines.)
A simple alternative to a scallop setting would be an internal layer height with two external layer heights one for vertical walls and one for everything else.
Re: Adaptive Outer Shell
I'm not familiar with the term "scallop height" but I feel like what you're wanting to utilize is the combine infill every __ layers setting from the infill tab.
Additional detail on the settings from the infill tab can be found here: viewtopic.php?t=1953
Additional detail on the settings from the infill tab can be found here: viewtopic.php?t=1953
"A bird does not sing because it has an answer. It sings because it has a song."
Re: Adaptive Outer Shell
I have seen other slicers with something similar to what he is describing. I'll try to rephrase it.
In a straight-walled object, the perceived "print quality" is identical from top to bottom.
In a spherical object, the perceived print quality is "best" near the center of the sphere where the layer edges are very close. But the perceived quality decreases as it approaches the top, where the radius forces each progressive layer edge (the outer perimeter) to be significantly farther from the previous. Near the equator, the layers are nearly stacked; the center two may have identical specs. At the north pole, however, the layers have many "lower layers" showing because the layers step considerably. I think this is what Kieth is calling "scallop height", but "scallop width" (or distance) may be more accurate than "scallop height". Look for "variable layer height" in this article:
https://all3dp.com/2/slic3r-vs-cura-3d- ... -shootout/
I have also seen another application of this, I think in KISSlicer, where it will adapt layer heights to make the "correct" size part instead of forcing the printed part into a pre-set layer division. For instance, if you want a 10mm block, and your layer height is .3, your block will end up 9.9mm tall, because 10 is not divisible by .3. By adapting, instead of targeting exactly .3mm, it can either increase or reduce the layer height so you get the perfect 10mm cube. This can also work with items with numerous areas with a top-layer.
In a straight-walled object, the perceived "print quality" is identical from top to bottom.
In a spherical object, the perceived print quality is "best" near the center of the sphere where the layer edges are very close. But the perceived quality decreases as it approaches the top, where the radius forces each progressive layer edge (the outer perimeter) to be significantly farther from the previous. Near the equator, the layers are nearly stacked; the center two may have identical specs. At the north pole, however, the layers have many "lower layers" showing because the layers step considerably. I think this is what Kieth is calling "scallop height", but "scallop width" (or distance) may be more accurate than "scallop height". Look for "variable layer height" in this article:
https://all3dp.com/2/slic3r-vs-cura-3d- ... -shootout/
I have also seen another application of this, I think in KISSlicer, where it will adapt layer heights to make the "correct" size part instead of forcing the printed part into a pre-set layer division. For instance, if you want a 10mm block, and your layer height is .3, your block will end up 9.9mm tall, because 10 is not divisible by .3. By adapting, instead of targeting exactly .3mm, it can either increase or reduce the layer height so you get the perfect 10mm cube. This can also work with items with numerous areas with a top-layer.
