Many people are aware that small layers frequently overheat causing blemishes. I'd like to suggest a new option for Cooling Speed Overrides: Move the hot end away from the print for (x) seconds.
This would simulate S3D own quality guide recommendation of printing duplicate parts at the same time to keep the hot end away from the part, but would not require the waisted time on the lower layers or filament on an unneeded part.
The solution currently implemented by S3D is slowing down the printer while working on layers that complete in under (15) seconds. This works well in some cases, but unfortunately this leaves the hot end right next to the print, actually causing more heat to build up. This is especially noticeable with tapered shapes, such as cones.
I do understand that active filament cooling can help in these cases. However, many printers are not equipped with one, and even ones that do, may still benefit from this setting.
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ReneeCelDesigns
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:34 am
Re: Ineffective cooling for small layers
Hi,
I was just about to request the same thing... THIS IS A SETTING IN CURA... but I dont much like cure SOOOOO PLEASE add this.
The ooz control would be very critical with this feature, but it works in Cura so its possible and will work.
I print many small parts and have to sometime print as many as 6 to allow the others to cool down. Sometimes I put a cube with very slow print settings beside the item I want to print to allow the item to cool down.
Lukas
I was just about to request the same thing... THIS IS A SETTING IN CURA... but I dont much like cure SOOOOO PLEASE add this.
The ooz control would be very critical with this feature, but it works in Cura so its possible and will work.
I print many small parts and have to sometime print as many as 6 to allow the others to cool down. Sometimes I put a cube with very slow print settings beside the item I want to print to allow the item to cool down.
Lukas
Re: Ineffective cooling for small layers
I have been experimenting with making a Prime Pillar with my second extruder, without loading filament. This effectively moves the extruder away from the print for a fixed amount of time on each layer.
I have been having some issues with under extrusion, but in concept it is working. I just need to calibrate. Obviously this adds a lot of extra time since the "fake" pillar prints at every layer. This hack also requires a spare extruder from your printer.
I have been having some issues with under extrusion, but in concept it is working. I just need to calibrate. Obviously this adds a lot of extra time since the "fake" pillar prints at every layer. This hack also requires a spare extruder from your printer.
Re: Ineffective cooling for small layers
I would also like to have this feature.
Getting the hot end away from the print for just a short period after every layer would resolve a lot of problems when printing the tops of fine structures.
Getting the hot end away from the print for just a short period after every layer would resolve a lot of problems when printing the tops of fine structures.
Re: Ineffective cooling for small layers
I agree that moving the hot end away from the part to allow cooling will help and is something I've used on Cura. The slow-down option does not really do much apart from overheat underlying layer more as it lays it down.
However, just moving the nozzle away after a layer is completed does not fully solve the problem, as a thick walled small feature will have multiple lines laid down side-by-side very quickly, with no cool-down period between adjacent beads, resulting in curled corners and misshapen outer walls.
TO MAKE THIS WORK EFFECTIVELY; I believe that two adjacent lines in a layer should not be laid down within a certain user-controlled time, perhaps by skipping every other line as well as moving the nozzle away if necessary.
Does that make sense, can 3DS do this?
However, just moving the nozzle away after a layer is completed does not fully solve the problem, as a thick walled small feature will have multiple lines laid down side-by-side very quickly, with no cool-down period between adjacent beads, resulting in curled corners and misshapen outer walls.
TO MAKE THIS WORK EFFECTIVELY; I believe that two adjacent lines in a layer should not be laid down within a certain user-controlled time, perhaps by skipping every other line as well as moving the nozzle away if necessary.
Does that make sense, can 3DS do this?
