I think I've asked this question before but got no comments or replies from anyone.....but I'll try again.
Is there anyone else who is printing very small parts on their fff printer using S3D?? Or am I pushing printing on the limits on my own?
I've been successful in printing this part, which is the smallest of six internal structure parts for a girder bridge for a T gauge model railway layout:
The part is 10 x 12 x 0.6mm, and the thinnest part is 0.4 x 0.6mm. Printed in PLA with a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm layer thickness on a MakerBot Replicator 2. And, yes, that's a SD card the part is on!
did, with .2mm and .25mm nozzle on self build machine, .1mm layer
- this crossbrace you printed, I printed something similar, these days, this type of stuff, I usually do with 3d pen and not with printer
- I remember your miniature automobil from the first question - I never printed something like that but I did print on UP Plus2 the miniature pump that has even smaller parts than that automobil ... it was a complete water/air pump in 10x10x10mm with moving parts, fins etc.. but for e.g. that part I was only ever able to print in teartime ABS (it is printed at 266-270C) and never with any "normal" material.. that ABS they sell also allow for the super easy removal of supports and other stuff teartime/up3d printers were known for.. never figured out what's the deal but I assume the ABS modified to be extruded at such high temperatures probbly solidifies quickly (plastic will drop 10-20C much faster from 270C than from 240C) so that might have to do with these small parts and how their old slicer handled them... now neither that pump nor old slicer (that was good, the new one is awfull so lot of users replaced closed source electronics and moved to something open so they can use other slicers)
I still use .2mm nozzle but in order to get better defined features and thin walls, not for "small parts" .. but what I learned so far
- you have to have filament cleaner or with .2mm nozzle you will have ton of clogs
- you have to heat it up 5 to 15C higher than with .3+
- it does not ooze almost at all
- if I'm using layers below .15 I need cooling no matter what material, even ABS need part cooling fan, PETG requires a lot of cooling, PLA even more..
I doubt I shared anything new but you are really going order of magnitude smaller than most, if I needed parts at that scale I'd probbly go resin way and would skip the fff/fdm but if fff/fdm is required I'd make my own printer with very precise miniature rails, small footprint (maybe 50x50x50mm) extruder fixed in XY position moving in Z and bed moving in XY (similar to first makerbot) with some extreme cooling of both custom made extruder and part
gcodestat integrates with Simplify3D and allow you to
Calculate print time accurately (acceleration, max speed, junction deviation all taken into consideration)
Embed M117 codes into G-Code
Upload your G-Code directly to Octoprint
open source and unlicence
you can for sure contact the guy on FB for more details
Attachments
gcodestat integrates with Simplify3D and allow you to
Calculate print time accurately (acceleration, max speed, junction deviation all taken into consideration)
Embed M117 codes into G-Code
Upload your G-Code directly to Octoprint
open source and unlicence
no you're not the only one pushing the limits...
i'm on a 1/10 rc truck project and i design all the part of the body, in some case i feel like it's big on the PC screen but on the printer's bed it's so small that i wonder if this is going to print well hehehehe
the part is 14mm long x 4mm wide x 2mm high
i print this with a 0.4 nozzle, 0.1 layers and 0.5mm wall on the xmachines lorei that crash on kickstarter
i have some other parts smaller to print
the limits are near the sky...
