CubePro Compatibility

[Redrichie]

I have used the offered fff files for my cubepro and I have gotten near perfect prints from extruder 1 and 2. But my third print head has a problem. It moves over to the waste basket and heat but then it sits and stays there. It never primes. And never starts the print.
This is only for using the third extruder independentlyrics. I haven't tried multiple colored prints yet. Any ideas?

[3dmakemesmall]

Hi,
now the info for rework, I hope you have experience in electronics and mechanics.

partlist:
Arduino mega 2560
Ramps 1.4
5 stepperdriver: drv8825 or 4988 or tmc2100
Powersupply 12V 14A
Powersupply 24V 14A
SSR input 3-32V 25A relais
Heatbed MK3
Build Tak 3D print surface
Cable and connectors, tools and alot of time.


1.step: find which cable is which steppermotor.
Extend this cable to the ramps1.4 , use connectors, don´t cut the original cables.
You need red, blue, green and black cable.

2.step: the hotend use 24V, the ramps1.4 supply only 12V. in this case you need 2 powersupplies and solid state relais (SSR) input 3-32V 25A.
Route separate cable for heatcarriage and thermistator of the hotends and connect it to ramps.

3. step: extend endstop cable as well and connect it to ramps.

4. step: heatbed MK3 with build tak, the MK3 is fixed with doublesided tape on the printbed.
You can use 24V with ssr relais, connect it to ramps, don´t forget the thermistator.

5.step: download marlin and arduino software, do the configuration.
http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

I have no pictures, the printer is working verywell, we use Simplify3d, no coding here - no coding there, only printing with PLA and ABS

good luck

Hi Tom,

we are from Germany and own a CubePro Duo.
Is it possible to get in contact? We want to "change" our machine like you did it.
Would be nice to hear from you

[3dmakemesmall]

Hi,
now the info for rework, I hope you have experience in electronics and mechanics.

partlist:
Arduino mega 2560
Ramps 1.4
5 stepperdriver: drv8825 or 4988 or tmc2100
Powersupply 12V 14A
Powersupply 24V 14A
SSR input 3-32V 25A relais
Heatbed MK3
Build Tak 3D print surface
Cable and connectors, tools and alot of time.


1.step: find which cable is which steppermotor.
Extend this cable to the ramps1.4 , use connectors, don´t cut the original cables.
You need red, blue, green and black cable.

2.step: the hotend use 24V, the ramps1.4 supply only 12V. in this case you need 2 powersupplies and solid state relais (SSR) input 3-32V 25A.
Route separate cable for heatcarriage and thermistator of the hotends and connect it to ramps.

3. step: extend endstop cable as well and connect it to ramps.

4. step: heatbed MK3 with build tak, the MK3 is fixed with doublesided tape on the printbed.
You can use 24V with ssr relais, connect it to ramps, don´t forget the thermistator.

5.step: download marlin and arduino software, do the configuration.
http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

I have no pictures, the printer is working verywell, we use Simplify3d, no coding here - no coding there, only printing with PLA and ABS

good luck

Hi Tom,

thank you for contacting us.
We are not able to write messages in this forum, because we are not signed in long enough.
For contact you can use info@3dmakemesmall.de
You can contact us in german if you want.

[douwe1230]

did you change the ntc in the extruder?

[baguirre]

Great stuff lephino! I haven't tried your profiles yet. It does appear that there is some issue with tool-head indexes, as your code appears to start the tool heads at index 1, while the internal ids start at index 0. Again, i look forward to trying them out! Thanks for posting!

ALSO--I'm currently running flexible filament in the cube-pro! I've read many places where it couldn't be done, but it is working great! it is VERY SLOW--a feedrate of M108 S5 is about as fast as it goes without jamming, but if you can handle speeds of around 600-800mm/min, it seems to work fine!

I'm using Inland brand flexible filament purchased from Microcenter. I'm not sure how it compares to NinjaFlex, but its easily available and does appear to be working.

I've turned off all priming and wiping to prevent any jams, but i'm sure proper prime/wipe parameters can be found to keep them in the scripts!

Hi,

About this, does anyone know if it is needed to change extruder/hotend in order to print with flexible filament?

Regards,

Bryan

[pabalo]

Hello,

I just stumbled upon this thread, and it seems it could be helpful for my problem. I have a CubePro with a busted extruder from almost a year ago, and I'm planning the following:

1. Replace the original extruder for an E3D v6 all-metal hotend one, for cheaper and better quality (IMO) replacements. I already designed and assembled a new extruder block for it (attached stl and f3d files), and it feels sturdy enough.
2. Replace original control PCB, user interface, and power supply so as to have the CubePro as a Marlin 3D printer, for ease of use and configurability.
3. Configure Marlin firmware accordingly.

But it seems that there may be another way with the original electronics simply through gcode. I'm thinking I could simply try to have a certain Z-offset of the original extruder vs. the new one, and a remapping of the new temperature readings vs. the old ones. That last procedure seems easier said than done, but I'm guessing I could characterize the new temperature curve's readings around printing capability, and set those new temperature values as the extruder's temperatures, depending on material.

I hope your extruders are OK, but I think most of us would like to not depend on 3D Systems' expensive and unmaintainableish replacements.

Cheers,
pabalo

[MichaelHerron]

Great stuff lephino! I haven't tried your profiles yet. It does appear that there is some issue with tool-head indexes, as your code appears to start the tool heads at index 1, while the internal ids start at index 0. Again, i look forward to trying them out! Thanks for posting!

ALSO--I'm currently running flexible filament in the cube-pro! I've read many places where it couldn't be done, but it is working great! it is VERY SLOW--a feedrate of M108 S5 is about as fast as it goes without jamming, but if you can handle speeds of around 600-800mm/min, it seems to work fine!

I'm using Inland brand flexible filament purchased from Microcenter. I'm not sure how it compares to NinjaFlex, but its easily available and does appear to be working.

I've turned off all priming and wiping to prevent any jams, but i'm sure proper prime/wipe parameters can be found to keep them in the scripts!

Hi,

About this, does anyone know if it is needed to change extruder/hotend in order to print with flexible filament?

Regards,

Bryan

Sorry for the late reply--If you print VERY slow its theoretically possible to print with flexibles. It would be far better to replace the extruder/hotend/Main PCB, however. It isn't terribly difficult to do, but it is an extensive rebuild and you'll need to design a custom carraige platform to match your chosen extruder/hotend. You will also need a VERY long hotend to reach past the HUGE bearings for the carraige. If you are brave, you could replace these too.

Good luck! I've gotten very good prints from my re-built Marlin CubePro, but its a single extruder--down from the Duo that it came with. It does have an amazingly fast 1000W 120VAC aluminum heated bed and an E3D V6 / Titan extruder hotend. Still, I'd personally recommend just getting a Creality printer. Rebuilding this monster will cost more than a new Ender 3D. Once you're up and running with the new printer, you can rebuild the Cube with printed parts, then sell it for something (far less than you paid).