Not all glass is equal... These points may help:
All glass is made at high temp so don't think you need high temp glass for printer beds - you don't.
Borosillicate glass is not as porous as Soda Lime Glass (regular glass you can buy at Ace Hardware for $7). You want more porousity.
Four Aspects that can help:
#1 I use Soda Lime Glass on both my printers and PLA sticks without glue-stick. The trick is to Clean the glass with water only and wipe dry. Do this before each printing. Printing leaves residuals in the micro-pores and facilitates warping so clean it.
#2 Another Significant Aspect is, what I call 'Squish'. You need to adjust bed height so the first layer is Squished into/onto the glass. I set my bed height a gap (between nozzle and bed at several locations) with a "cigarette rolling paper" for a shim. But, not all brands of rolling paper are equal (Top is too thick, ZigZag is made from corn silk and much thinner than Top/others. I use ZigZag and Rizla+).
#3 Bed Temp for PLA: First layer = 55C, remaining layers=50C. If you remove the heat, the print can warp or become loose.
#4 Extrude Temp for PLA: The recommended Temps on the filament spools/spec's are only starting points. For some reason (perhaps blind leading blind) folks seem to fear raising extrude temp as if the machine will melt...
Example Temps I use (from three years of printing/testing): Note, these Temps are all 10 to 17 degs beyond package recommendations. With these settings, all surfaces look exvellent. Note: before retirement, was responsible for 32 injection molding machines (from 3 ton to 40 ton)...
eSun PLA - I print at 227C
Bam PLA - I print at 232C
Hatchbox PLA - I print at 237C (yes, I do see a diff between 235C and 237C. The difference is whether to top surface has gaps or not (given all else is equal).
I haven't used glue-stick on PLA in 6 months (I do use it for ABS).
3D Print Parts