Even bad results can provide some information.
Since you are getting different results with Makerware my guess is there is something incorrect about the machine definition (steps /mm).
I would suggest contacting Simplify 3D support for advice on how to adjust this.
Re: Help me Calibrate
OK, ive contacted the support team, i am waiting for their reply
Thank you !
Thank you !
Re: Help me Calibrate
Ok ! the support team helped allot withe the accuracy, my PLA cube now is 20.00 x 19.95 !!!
In the Firmware selection under x3g tab it was selected replicator 2 and it should be replicator 1
thank you all
Raf
In the Firmware selection under x3g tab it was selected replicator 2 and it should be replicator 1
thank you all
Raf
Re: Help me Calibrate
Going back to ABS
This is 19.90x19.90 good accuracy but not such a good build, some issues with the corners
Extr. Multi 1
Extr. Width 0.40
Layer 0.29
Infill 20%
temps 230/110
Random start point
This is 19.90x19.90 good accuracy but not such a good build, some issues with the corners
Extr. Multi 1
Extr. Width 0.40
Layer 0.29
Infill 20%
temps 230/110
Random start point
Re: Help me Calibrate
18.54 x 18.39? If you increase that by 6% you're close to the right size. Are you sure S3D isn't generating s3g/x3g for a Rep 2? A Rep 2 has 6.3% fewer steps per mm than a Rep 1. If the gcode was converted to s3g/x3g for a Rep 2 but then printed on a Rep 1, then the print would be 6.3% undersized. That 6.3% increase would give you 19.7 x 19.5 mm which is more in the correct ballpark. Alternatively, Wanhao may have put 18T pulleys on your bot instead of the typical 17T pulleys for a Rep 1.raffo333 wrote:Hi there, ive made allot of tests and this is my best so far:#
I used the replicator 1 profile with 0.75 Extr. Multi. infill 100%
Its not bad, the corners are not perfect but my main issue now is accuracy
my 20x20x test cube measures 18.54x18.39
What can i do to be more precise ? other than just scale the object...
Thanks in advance
Raf
Re: Help me Calibrate
It looks like you're a lot closer!
I had a lot of problems with ABS. Some of my first prints looked like big blobs of mush.
The curling corners are likely due to uneven cooling. For some parts that have thinner walls it might not be a big issue (like the object in your very first picture.)
There seems to be several different approaches to helping with this problem:
1) Close off the sides of the printer to raise the temperature inside while the part is printing and also prevent any air drafts from getting to the part. This is what is done in industrial 3D plastic printers like Stratasys. Those printers are essentially inside a large convection oven with circulating air. The chamber temperature for ABS is around 85C.
2) The second approach is to add some cooling with an external fan or nozzle cooler. However if you have too much air or it is too cold you will have layer bonding problems.
3) What I do (with my Leapfrog Creatr) is print with a lower bed temperature. For that to work you need to have really good bed adhesion to keep the part stuck down. I print with the bed at 60C. I print directly on the glass bed that is coated with a glue from a glue stick. (The popular brand is UHU however I'm using Elmers "Craft Bond" permanent bond glue stick.) The glue stick works better than ABS slurry. I also have a small computer fan mounted in the back of the printer, blowing towards the front. However in my case since the bed on the Creatr is quite large, the air is warmed by the bed before it gets to the part.
Here is the calibration cube printed in ABS that I did just now. This is still setting in the printer. Of course if you are currently printing on tape and try the glue stick method you will probably need to adjust you're bed so that it is a little closer to the nozzle.
This cube was done with the extruder at 230C, the bed at 60C, and 0.15mm layer thickness.
I had a lot of problems with ABS. Some of my first prints looked like big blobs of mush.
The curling corners are likely due to uneven cooling. For some parts that have thinner walls it might not be a big issue (like the object in your very first picture.)
There seems to be several different approaches to helping with this problem:
1) Close off the sides of the printer to raise the temperature inside while the part is printing and also prevent any air drafts from getting to the part. This is what is done in industrial 3D plastic printers like Stratasys. Those printers are essentially inside a large convection oven with circulating air. The chamber temperature for ABS is around 85C.
2) The second approach is to add some cooling with an external fan or nozzle cooler. However if you have too much air or it is too cold you will have layer bonding problems.
3) What I do (with my Leapfrog Creatr) is print with a lower bed temperature. For that to work you need to have really good bed adhesion to keep the part stuck down. I print with the bed at 60C. I print directly on the glass bed that is coated with a glue from a glue stick. (The popular brand is UHU however I'm using Elmers "Craft Bond" permanent bond glue stick.) The glue stick works better than ABS slurry. I also have a small computer fan mounted in the back of the printer, blowing towards the front. However in my case since the bed on the Creatr is quite large, the air is warmed by the bed before it gets to the part.
Here is the calibration cube printed in ABS that I did just now. This is still setting in the printer. Of course if you are currently printing on tape and try the glue stick method you will probably need to adjust you're bed so that it is a little closer to the nozzle.
This cube was done with the extruder at 230C, the bed at 60C, and 0.15mm layer thickness.
- Attachments
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Re: Help me Calibrate
Today ive changed my extruders, both broken, now i am on MK9
So i am starting again, i will let you know
Thank you!
Raf
So i am starting again, i will let you know
Thank you!
Raf
Re: Help me Calibrate
I also had problems with sizes not correct at first on my velleman k8200. That is because firmware is set at an average regarding tolerances of steppers.
The key is to make sure ex 100mm movement REALLY is 100mm and not 99mm or 100.5mm. the trick is to calibrate firmware to the correct steps per revolution of the motors,
including the extruder stepper.
Extrusion rate should ideally be set to 1.0 to really extrude the width you set.
When i first printed with my printer every measurement always were to small or too big, making a bolt not fit in a hole, or gears not fitting into each other.
After calibrating the steppers i always get it right now.
The key is to make sure ex 100mm movement REALLY is 100mm and not 99mm or 100.5mm. the trick is to calibrate firmware to the correct steps per revolution of the motors,
including the extruder stepper.
Extrusion rate should ideally be set to 1.0 to really extrude the width you set.
When i first printed with my printer every measurement always were to small or too big, making a bolt not fit in a hole, or gears not fitting into each other.
After calibrating the steppers i always get it right now.
Re: Help me Calibrate
First time poster...
I also have the problem with prints not being accurate enough. I tried playing around with the
Tools-->Firmware--> X3G -->Primary Axes
values but nothing really happens with the prints, I must be missing something.
Have a 100mm wide bar that I´m printing
Default (88.573186) --> 99,75mm
88,50 --> 99,61mm
88,95 --> 99,61mm
88,88 --> 99,53mm
90,50 --> 99,62mm
Any help would be appreciated
I also have the problem with prints not being accurate enough. I tried playing around with the
Tools-->Firmware--> X3G -->Primary Axes
values but nothing really happens with the prints, I must be missing something.
Have a 100mm wide bar that I´m printing
Default (88.573186) --> 99,75mm
88,50 --> 99,61mm
88,95 --> 99,61mm
88,88 --> 99,53mm
90,50 --> 99,62mm
Any help would be appreciated
