Simplify3D User Forum

Hello,
Flashforge pro user here.
In my drop down for auto-configure materials - I only have ABS PLA PVA Nylon - Are there auto configures avail for PETG and PET or others?

I looked through many threads and it seems like there may be but maybe I am missing something.

I know I can adjust any setting and save new ones - just wondering is the software has some pre-sets for these other materials?

A good starting place anyway ...

Thanks

No. You have to make the presets for yourself. Basically you can use PLA as template and normally you have to slightly inrease temperature for heat bed (I use 80°C) and 230°C for nozzle. And increase the extrusion multiplier about 5%.

I get away with lower bed temps. 65C works great for me. Glue stick on glass with two machines. My FFCP has the OEM bed. No glue stick.
Cheaper Pet G uses about 235 C extrude temp. Better stuff prints better a little higher like 245 to 250 C. I imagine the color has something to do with it as well. I mainly use clear or black and just use black and white on the FFCP.
It's still pretty new.

I have been using these settings, but i would love to see some known better settings !

Dose anyone use the Black Monoprice PETG, and can advise?

Right now I am just guess and checking based on very little understanding, there is not a lot out there that is specifically targeted for PETG on S3D afaict ?

Personally, I have increased retraction distance to 2.0mm
Reduced the Retraction Vertical Lift to 0.2mm
Increased to 2 skirt outlines because material really likes to ooze, and empty the extrusion cavity.

*** Is there any good settings for "End of Print filament retraction" , an subsequent "Start of Print Fillamaent Prime" simply to help mitigate the not printing oozing issue?

http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593

Every filament will be different. It is good practice to get a baseline for your filament now. Print out some calibration prints. Smaller the better because it allows you to see the results and accomplish calibration faster. Different colors from the same brand may need to be tweaked some too.

I have changed from PLA to PET completely since I managed to make the prints 99% good.
There are so many advantages of the PET compared to PLA but the main reason is that it is Food safe and doesn't react with water.
Why there are not more people writing about PET - eventually there will be a preset for PET if this is more interesting to others...

My Printer is a new Snapmaker3D in beta testing phase and I use following settings for PET (ICE Filaments).

• Extruder temp: 220°C (195-220°C marked on the box)
• Heted bed at 60°C
• Rate: 95%
• Printing Speed: 30 mm/s (1st layer 33%, outline perimeter 60% infill 75%)
• Retraction: 1,2 mm @25 mm/s
• Layer height: 0,15 mm

I don't know why PET(G) isn't more common...
The only problem I have is the delamination of the 2nd layer and I don't know why. The 1st layer lays down quite well and also the stability of the rest is excelent but the 1st layer is comming off as you can see in following picture:


Do you have any suggestions for my problem?

Started experimenting with PETG. As long as there are no bridges or overhangs I can do pretty well, but as soon as I introduce a part
with bridges and overhangs the print doesn't look very well in the bridge or overhang.
Anyone have a .factory or a process for PETG that works on a FlashForge Creator Pro with Simplify3D??

Thank you

It took a bit of work to get good PETG prints but, I finally got there.
Both of my printers are Prusa (built from kits and modified for V6 hot-ends / etc)

No more stringing, blobs…etc.

Several print parameters dialed-in. If you review the attached files and tweak your printing, you may get good/similar results.

Part for testing the stringing/etc are attached. It represents the most difficult aspects of printing with PETG that I found to be bothersome (I designed them specifically for testing PETG on my machines with PETG)

PETG tends to ooze more than PLA in my experience, so you may need to add some extra restart distance to avoid a gap at the start of a trace. Also, increasing the amount and/or speed of retraction can help reduce stringing. I've never been able to get rid of all stringing however; it's just the nature of the beast.

The process I posted eliminates all stringing on my machines. But, 'yes', it's the biggest challenge so the parts I posted are good example to work with.

Tip! Lower the Hot-End Temp, check the print speed and, MUST use the fan - petg wants to be cooled as soon as it's laid down...