No supports generating

[sinabu]

Looking closer at your screenshot... when you rotate the view inside S3D, does it appear as some of the
models surfaces are invisible from some angles? Looks like flipped normals.... it's pretty noticeable on the
feet if you directly compare them to the sliced preview, something´s missing in normal view.

Yeah thats what I was mentioning regarding it looking funny, Like surfaces was missing but when you look at the sliced view it looked complete

Ah, okay. So technically the model is alright, it really looks like the normals are facing inwards. It's some kind of "definition to the objects surface, which side of it can be seen". So in 3d view you're always seeing the inside of the object while the normals facing the camera disapper/are invisible. I didn't come across such a model yet...

If you're willing to install yet another tool, you might want to give "Meshmixer" a go. It has a feature to "flip normals", here's short tutorial on how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pa9R-gPUNwg

I'm pretty convinced this would fix the problems with 3d view/support generation.

The old release from netfabb I'm using doesn't offer this. It may be different for what Doug has posted, taking a closer look at his hint now... ^^

YAY That did it!!! Thank you @parallyze

Now I have some more tools in my toolbox if I run in to that again! Time to get printing

[parallyze]

YAY That did it!!! Thank you @parallyze

Now I have some more tools in my toolbox if I run in to that again! Time to get printing

That's great to hear after all the hassle

Getting used to meshmixer isn't the worst thing to do if you're going to 3d print models from the internet. It's quite powerful.

Just one thing to note:
If you're planning to print that tiger now I'd suggest printing two copies. That shoulder part, where the color is dark blue (because of low speeds) will keep the extruder over this part of the model all the time, which might lead to insufficient cooling. So if you had another model 10cm away the extruder would travel between them, giving the material some seconds to cool down.

A simple box scaled along Z to the same height should also do the job and wouldn't require supports, that's what I usually do.

[sinabu]

YAY That did it!!! Thank you @parallyze

Now I have some more tools in my toolbox if I run in to that again! Time to get printing

That's great to hear after all the hassle

Getting used to meshmixer isn't the worst thing to do if you're going to 3d print models from the internet. It's quite powerful.

Just one thing to note:
If you're planning to print that tiger now I'd suggest printing two copies. That shoulder part, where the color is dark blue (because of low speeds) will keep the extruder over this part of the model all the time, which might lead to insufficient cooling. So if you had another model 10cm away the extruder would travel between them, giving the material some seconds to cool down.

A simple box scaled along Z to the same height should also do the job and wouldn't require supports, that's what I usually do.

Thanks for the tip! I'll add a little tower in .

On low (.3mm / 15% infill) It says about 9 hours.. I'll post up a pic once it's done!

[parallyze]

On low (.3mm / 15% infill) It says about 9 hours.. I'll post up a pic once it's done!

Without knowing other settings that sounds a bit slow. But better start slow and see how it
turns out before asking for more trouble by ramping speeds up.

How tall is the tiger, looks like 45mm-50mm from the screenshot?

For comparison: Printed a benchy two days ago (60mm x 31mm x 48mm) and a tower at
0.125mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 25% infill, 5/4 top/bottom layers. 50mm/s base speed,
outlines @40%, infill speed @60% and infill printed every 2 layers. Took 02h32m (s3d
estimated 02h27m, pretty spot on taking heating/homing into account)...

[sinabu]

On low (.3mm / 15% infill) It says about 9 hours.. I'll post up a pic once it's done!

Without knowing other settings that sounds a bit slow. But better start slow and see how it
turns out before asking for more trouble by ramping speeds up.

How tall is the tiger, looks like 45mm-50mm from the screenshot?

For comparison: Printed a benchy two days ago (60mm x 31mm x 48mm) and a tower at
0.125mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 25% infill, 5/4 top/bottom layers. 50mm/s base speed,
outlines @40%, infill speed @60% and infill printed every 2 layers. Took 02h32m (s3d
estimated 02h27m, pretty spot on taking heating/homing into account)...

I'm printing it 76mm x162mm x76mm

I've just been using the default settings that S3D Setup for my printer mostly.

On Fast its 15% Infill, .3mm layer height

[parallyze]

I'm printing it 76mm x162mm x76mm

I've just been using the default settings that S3D Setup for my printer mostly.

On Fast its 15% Infill, .3mm layer height

Looks like reasonable speeds to start with. Depending on how good part cooling is you might want to lower
the speed override to something less aggressive, maybe < 10 seconds and only a slow down to 50%.

2400mm/min is 40mm/s, so printing the oulines a bit faster (75% = 1800mm/min = 30mm/s) shouldn't harm
print quality much.

Going much faster than 40mm/s using 0.3mm layer height is something I wouldn't suggest until there's a
"feeling" of how much material the extruder can handle to melt consistently.

Travel moves along x/y do look quite slow at 4800mm/min = 80mm/s, though. Again, this is different to
each machine... but personally I'd expect that machine to do this at least using 6000-7200mm/min (100-120mm/s)
without problems.

btw: If you're using other software which might default to mm/s instead of mm/min, this can be
changed under tools -> options -> speed display units.

[sinabu]

I'm printing it 76mm x162mm x76mm

I've just been using the default settings that S3D Setup for my printer mostly.

On Fast its 15% Infill, .3mm layer height

Looks like reasonable speeds to start with. Depending on how good part cooling is you might want to lower
the speed override to something less aggressive, maybe < 10 seconds and only a slow down to 50%.

2400mm/min is 40mm/s, so printing the oulines a bit faster (75% = 1800mm/min = 30mm/s) shouldn't harm
print quality much.

Going much faster than 40mm/s using 0.3mm layer height is something I wouldn't suggest until there's a
"feeling" of how much material the extruder can handle to melt consistently.

Travel moves along x/y do look quite slow at 4800mm/min = 80mm/s, though. Again, this is different to
each machine... but personally I'd expect that machine to do this at least using 6000-7200mm/min (100-120mm/s)
without problems.

btw: If you're using other software which might default to mm/s instead of mm/min, this can be
changed under tools -> options -> speed display units.

Still so much to learn

I have the Creality CRS-10Pro and I upgraded the cooler from the stock cooler and have to dual fan / dual fin one which made a big difference on what I've printed from the stock one. I've always felt that this machine was a bit slow but I never ventured much in to changing the S3D stuff which is one of the reasons i purchased it. Tried and True setting profiles since I didn't know what I was doing lol.

Thanks for the tip on the settings to I haven't started printing just yet as Im doing this part for a friend and waiting on them to verify what color they want.

Doing those tweeks S3D went down to 7 hours

[sinabu]

Here's my little setup. I live full time in a 5th Wheel so I re-purposed the Washer/Dryer closet as my little printing cabinet. I usually just leave the door cracked and it creates a nice little warm space so the printer heaters don't have to work so hard.

I think I am going to get some hooks to do on each side to hold the rolls of filament at some point to

Along with the upgraded coolers I have the TH3D upgraded fans for the boards inside and parts coolers and then I got a magnetic build mat and I changed out the Bed leveling sensor to a better one that was recommended

[parallyze]

Here's my little setup. I live full time in a 5th Wheel so I re-purposed the Washer/Dryer closet as my little printing cabinet. I usually just leave the door cracked and it creates a nice little warm space so the printer heaters don't have to work so hard.

I think I am going to get some hooks to do on each side to hold the rolls of filament at some point to

Along with the upgraded coolers I have the TH3D upgraded fans for the boards inside and parts coolers and then I got a magnetic build mat and I changed out the Bed leveling sensor to a better one that was recommended

Watch out when printing PLA at very slow speeds in warm places.

As far as I know the ptfe tubing on the Creality goes into the hotend, so "heat creep" might not be that much of an issue like on
other hotends (e3d/all metal). But when printing at thin layers and therefore few material extruded it is very important to keep
the cold zone really cool. Prusa and some users learnt this the hard way after putting their printers in closed LACK enclosures
and such. The choice of an Noctua fan with not enough airflow/static pressure did it's rest, they redesigned that part multiple
times.... ^^

PLA gets soft at ~55°C and this should never happen above the heat block, just keep that in mind. Nasty thing about this is it will
only show over time, often hours into the print...

Magnetic printbed sounds nice. Been struggling to upgrade my printers but sometimes taking prints of buildtak/pei sheets can
be a bit tricky...

"Tried and True setting profiles since I didn't know what I was doing lol.

They're a big help for beginners, yes. But at one point you will end up learning what all those strange parameters actually
do and never look back ...

I'd suggest taking a look at your nozzle diameter and what extrusion widths can be used. On some parts this
can speed up prints dramatically and it's helpful for others. Vases for example, that way you can define how thick
that single wall is going to be. On the tiger this wouldn't make much of a difference because there's no thin walls
or features which would really benefit from this change...

[sinabu]

I think he came out pretty good. Just need to debur the support spots I used WYZ Clear PLA. He is going to sit on an RGB Header inside a PC Case so hopefully the colors will shine through some