fatboy1271 wrote: ↑
Mon Jul 27, 2020 10:51 pm
I'll start again with my thanks and appreciation for your time!
Glad I was able to make you laugh... Even worse, they're duplicated between Processes and Profiles. I find the Processes easier to see versus a drop down that has a smaller number of visable options without scrolling up and down.
Just make sure you always have a copy of your profiles/a recent factory file in case anything messes up. Setting everything up from
scratch again is not the nicest way to waste some time...
I remember one of the "tip of the days" or something here on the website mentioning this, maybe you'd like to take a look at it. Using processes
will make everything quite confusing the moment you start to use different processes for a single print... ^^
One thing I like to do very often is using a single process for the first layer only. If bed adhesion is not a problem I sometimes use this to "design" the front parts of some of my prints by printing infill only (30%-50%) on the first layer, followed by solid layers afterwards. Reduces print times a bit and I absolutely don't like it if a big part is "ruined" because of one or two tiny spots on an otherwise nice solid layer (dent in the bed/buildtak).
If you have a look at the pictures from step 8 here
you can see what I mean.
I have an All Metal V6 and outside of the fan on the Heatsink facing the wrong way, I feel like I was pretty meticulous in following the instructions. For what it's worth I replaced the stock Heatbreak, I snapped the original, with a 'Titanium V6 heatbreak V2.3 by 3D passion' and I also use Capricorn PTFE.
Had a look at the heatbreak. Looks like it should fit, the shoulder is clearly visible so it's hopefully not another "ptfe all the way through" clone with wrong pictures...
There's no play in the PTFE tube at the V6; however, there is a slight amount of play at the Extruder. I'll look into that.
Good idea. Depending on the position of the extruder and the way the bowden tubing moves this might cause the ptfe tubing move a bit instead of the filament inside.
Wow, that's quite a difference and why someone like me "relies" on someone like you
Hmm, well I actually went back to the assembly instructions that E3D has and I stopped at PID Tuning. The next step, which is the last step, is to adjust your Retraction...! DOH
Attached is a screenshot, but it says start at 1mm and don't go more than 2mm. At least I wasn't getting any jams from the 5mm setting.
Most of the time jams somehow are connected to the object/print settings. Many retracts on small features or very slow printing speeds might show problems much, much faster...
You are Awesome!!! I love all of this info! I will work on the retraction first and then start to hit these suggestions. Oh, and my Enclosure was delivered today so I have one more thing to distract me with
...and while I can understand some people like to have an enclosure, make sure it fits the job.
If you do have a look at the e3d v6 specs you'll notice the temperature on the heat sink/cold zone has to be quite low. Putting the printer inside an enclosure might lead to problems (remember, "heat creep"? ^^) when printing materials like PLA. Keeping the cold zone cool enough is quite hard inside a box, especially if there's a heated bed inside. Consider adding fans to move at least some air in/out on prints with slow extrusion rates. If you're not using PLA at all this might be useless information, but I recommend reading a bit about it. One source would be forums, maybe you'll find interesting on the prusa forums. They made some changes to the extruder housing and so on because of the noctua fan not cooling the cold zone sufficiently in some situations. Also you'd might want to check the specs of your fan - as far as I can tell that's not the 30mm one coming with e3d hotends, looks like a 40mm one?
While they often do push more air than the smaller ones they often do have less static pressure...
Oh, and if you're curious: Have a look at the specs from "more professional" printers like maybe the makerbot method. You'll notice they do have quite low operating temperatures written in their manuals, usually somewhere in the 27°C - 32°C range.... ^^
If your primary concern is noise, don't expect too much from an enclosure. Mechanics should be pretty noiseless, most of the time it's the noise the steppers make driving people mad. Switching to trinamics using stealth mode/chop will reduce this much better than putting everything inside a IKEA Lack enclosure.
The good thing about relative simple 3d printers like those is: When using common materials like PLA you very often do not need any "special features" like Extra restart distance, coasting, wiping. Prints should look nice and clean already if everything is coming together well, so don't
get stuck on settings when there might be a mechanical solution/problem - maybe just overseen yet.
Years back I couldn't understand how e3d was talking about retract distances of 0.6-0.8mm on direct drive extruders.
But after finding out many little tiny details about how it's all working together I can say: Yes, 0.6-0.8mm on direct drive does work very well
(Using PETG @ 1.2-1.4mm on direct drive, don't have a bowden extruder mounted to any of my printers right now)
Oh, and don't repeat the mistake I once made: Forgetting to hot-tighten everything. You won't notice this the first hours of printing. But one day you'll notice molten black plastic coming out of the upper thread from the heating block...
Many thanks and I greatly appreciate all of your time!