Yeah, PETG is a completely different beast from PLA.
Comments and hints.
Ditch the raft, that is a waste of time and material. Get your bed level and you won't need it. Leveling is an hour or so of time that you will not regret doing.
PETG prints hotter, both in bed and nozzle temperature.
Unless you have a perfectly tuned printer and can turn up the heat to print fast, don't try to print fast. That is an order of magnitude harder to do then just printing well.
So. Try each one of these, one at a time, to see which one does the trick. I would leave the each step on as you try the next step.
Drop your print speed, if your base is 80mm/s in PLA, drop to 60mm/s. (then go down the wall/infill/support list 60%, 80%, 80%)
Do NOT squish PETG. Do a 150% layer height on the first layer. I do 150% layer height and 110% trace width. (With CURA I up the flow).
Heat your bed to 75 or 80C (Or don't heat at all and use Blue Tape).
Take your PETG up to 230 or 240C at the nozzle, I select the middle of the brand's temperature range as a starting point.
Depending upon your PETG manufacturer and part fan or blower, you will want from 60 to 100% part fan. I often just go 100%, not always.
Turn on coasting, at least .2mm
Turn on wiping, 2mm works well for me MOST of the time.
On the advanced tab, select retract during wipe.
On the advanced tab, select avoid crossing edges, about 3mm is a good start for the max distance.
Finally, Turn off z-hop, this is often the best way to eliminate stringing, but is not always needed.
As long as your bed is level, as you go through this list, things will get better and better. There are other settings to play with, but these will get you on your way I think.
Robotics and sensors engineer
And lots of other stuff for fun.