Loosing Faith

[PinballGeorgio]

Hi there,

I have been struggling with Simplify3D now for a couple of weeks and everytime I ran into another problem. I wanted a trial version of S3D but that was not possible. I received an email with links and info how good 3D was comparing to other products, so I was quickly convinced about this.
But after a few weeks and spending lots of time. I cannot get the same results which I get with Cura, RepG or Makerbot. The output is worse then these other programs. Have contacted support several times, but no answer with a solution. Only blames towards my hardware, but with the other programs, no problem. So my hardware is good in my opinion. The most important question for me now is, can I get a refund and deactivation of the software? That question stays unanswered.

Anyway today a new problem with the first layer and slicing.
The slicer mismatches the first layer at certain prints. I show you in the pictures:

First layers are perfect

First layers are forgotten at some point?????

[KeyboardWarrior]

Can you post a factory file? Also, what printer are you using?

[PinballGeorgio]

It's the slicer, not my hardware. This is a preview.
Sorry, but I'm done with this software, so many problems and no solution. Wasted more than 100 hours I think.

[KeyboardWarrior]

It's the slicer, not my hardware. This is a preview.

The factory file contains all the information that your slicing with. Also, knowing what print you are using helps get a better understanding of the situation. If you are printing with a MakerBot Replicator 2 (.5 mm nozzle), that's different than the MakerGear M2 (.35 mm nozzle), etc.

For information on factory files, go to https://www.simplify3d.com/support/tuto ... ile-types/

File-->Save Factory File As

[PinballGeorgio]

OK I give it another try, see if someone can find this error

Sword-Art-Online-Logo-Stand.factory

(149.25 KiB) Downloaded 385 times

[KeyboardWarrior]

OK I give it another try, see if someone can find this error

The attachment Sword-Art-Online-Logo-Stand.factory is no longer available

Few things I changed.

Concentric Infill-->Rectilinear (Concentric isn't the best choice for this part, Concentric generally works well for geometric shapes)
Outline Overlap from 15% to 30%
Minimum Infill Length from 5 mm to 3 mm.
Also change the First Layer Extrusion Width down from 250% to 125%

You can immediately see in the G-Code previewer, the slicing looks much better

[PinballGeorgio]

Ok, but with every object I have to change the settings and try a few times.. That isn't simplifying things
I really appriciate your help! let that be clear!
Rectilineair or concentric are both not a good choice in this object. As you can see the stand pattern looks bad and you can see the pattern in the final print also.
Concentric fixes this, but then the other part of the object is less pretty. When there was an option to lay the first layer straight from right to left or top to bottom this was no problem. How the infill in the object is, doesn't matter, you can't see that in the final object.

But when I resize this object, the problem comes back and have to change this again

Also, maybe you know the answer of my other post > Why is a raft 100% smooth layer, but without it I can see stripes and the pattern of infill?

[KeyboardWarrior]

Ok, but with every object I have to change the settings and try a few times.. That isn't simplifying things
I really appriciate your help! let that be clear!

But when I resize this object, the problem comes back and have to change this again

Also, maybe you know the answer of my other post > Why is a raft 100% smooth layer, but without it I can see stripes and the pattern of infill?

I think in that Factory File I uploaded, I may of saved it prior to editing your First Layer Width to 125%. Be sure to change that when testing, but resizing your part shouldn't make any difference for these settings.

However, if you were using the default profile for the Wanhao Duplicator, (Help-->Reset All Settings) I think your print settings would be really good, it was just that concentric was the biggest issue for this print. The default profiles typically work really well from my experiences (simple )

Your First Layer Width of 250% isn't ideal, that would be attempting to print at a width of 1 mm wide line out of a .4 mm nozzle. The First Layer Width is applied to the first layer that touches your bed, so that setting was being applied to the bottom of your raft, not the bottom of your part. Using settings closer to the defaults, such as 100-125% for the First Layer Width should offer a much better bottom finish to your part (without a raft).

[PinballGeorgio]

Look at my edited post, about the infill. Putting the extruder width to an extreme makes the bottom layer the most solid for me, without seeying the stripes of the pattern.
The reset all settings are totally not good with my Wanhao 4S. Speed settings are too high, extruder speed is set too high. The standard speed settings are beyond the limits of the machine. You can hear that with the sound of the stepper motors, especially the Z stepper which is too high. Also the nozzle is set to 0,4 but the extrusion width is set to 0,84 with setting on auto.
lots of that sort settings are wrong. I think that users which are not aware of this can ruin their stepper motors or stretching the X/Y belts at the long term. Inaccuracy problems will occur.

[Scottbee]

You are possibly not getting a lot of responses because you don't seem to be familiar with the capabilities of your hardware and what the machine is capable of.

Your machine should be running a derivative of the Sailfish firmware. As long as acceleration hasn't been disabled, you should be able to easily achieve travel speeds in excess of 120mm/sec. You should be able to safely print/extrude with speeds around 60mm/sec... and the limitation there is extruder starvation due to the PTFE thermal tube liner.... not the stepper motors.

Damage the stepper motors? Not going to happen.

Stretch the belts? Not going to happen.

There's a really good forum on Google Groups for Wanhao printers. You might want to go there and gain some familiarity with your machine. Some of the S3D settings and methods that you appear to be trying are kinda absurd, and I can assure you that there is no better slicer for that machine than S3D.