Minimizing 'zits', and other questions

[noirwhal]

Hello,

I recently purchased S3d to go with my 'PowerSpec 3D Pro' flashforge creator pro clone.

I have been generally happy with S3D so far, and find it far superior to the workflow of rep-g or makerware, but I have a few questions.

1) This is more print quality issue: I have little zits and sometime pockmarks forming - I will upload some pictures in a little bit - but they appear to be where a wipe happens, or the extruder leaks (it appears to be on purpose) - and it makes a little bump.

2) What is up with the accuracy? Inside holes are way off - the suggested method of scaling the x and y is simply ridiculous and I (so far) refuse to even try it - call me weird - but stretching the model on 2 planes is a terrible crutch compared to some sort of per-axis scaling factor, or better, making the inside diameters calibrated via some software tool or something? Any suggestions on this?

3) I have seen a traslate panel that pops up - what is the command to open this? Is it only a hotkey? I have only seen it pop up once.

4) This is more of a comment or gripe. Please consider creating a real manual with illustrations describing some of the features. $150 software deserves a real manual.

[noirwhal]

The answer for rotating parts or translating the, by a fixed amount is simply double clicking on the part!


Still working on tolerances and finish.

[KeyboardWarrior]

Hello,

I recently purchased S3d to go with my 'PowerSpec 3D Pro' flashforge creator pro clone.

I have been generally happy with S3D so far, and find it far superior to the workflow of rep-g or makerware, but I have a few questions.

1) This is more print quality issue: I have little zits and sometime pockmarks forming - I will upload some pictures in a little bit - but they appear to be where a wipe happens, or the extruder leaks (it appears to be on purpose) - and it makes a little bump.

2) What is up with the accuracy? Inside holes are way off - the suggested method of scaling the x and y is simply ridiculous and I (so far) refuse to even try it - call me weird - but stretching the model on 2 planes is a terrible crutch compared to some sort of per-axis scaling factor, or better, making the inside diameters calibrated via some software tool or something? Any suggestions on this?

3) I have seen a traslate panel that pops up - what is the command to open this? Is it only a hotkey? I have only seen it pop up once.

4) This is more of a comment or gripe. Please consider creating a real manual with illustrations describing some of the features. $150 software deserves a real manual.

1) What temperature/filament are you using? The default FlashForge Creator Pro may print PLA at 230 which may be too hot for your PLA. Try 210 if you're having really bad zits. The hotter the extruder, the more leaking since the material in your nozzle will have a lower viscosity (be more fluid).

2) You are most likely over-extruding, which could go hand-in-hand with the print temperature issue.

3) Press W and then move parts around. You can watch their YouTube videos for more tips: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQP0Ku ... XnQ/videos

4) Their tutorials are really good, you can also use the Tip of the Days I made that are stickied

[noirwhal]

1) What temperature/filament are you using? The default FlashForge Creator Pro may print PLA at 230 which may be too hot for your PLA. Try 210 if you're having really bad zits. The hotter the extruder, the more leaking since the material in your nozzle will have a lower viscosity (be more fluid).

2) You are most likely over-extruding, which could go hand-in-hand with the print temperature issue.

3) Press W and then move parts around. You can watch their YouTube videos for more tips: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQP0Ku ... XnQ/videos

4) Their tutorials are really good, you can also use the Tip of the Days I made that are stickied

1) I was using MicroCenter ABS at 260c
2) This is possible - I actually had the zits disappear at some point
3) Thanks!
4) YOUR posts are great. Thank you.