JasonA
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Location: SoCal -CA
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PETg and need a little extra "depth" or Z - FFCP/Sailfish

Hey everyone,

I'm coming from RepG and start to play with Slic3r but that just pissed me off too much. While I can print ANYTHING with RepG on ABS and PLA (been doing it for years) i've just started to play with eSUN PETg :shock:

Last week while frustrated I saw a great vid/tutorial saying you need -0.04 to -0.06 extra Z between each later because PETg is so sticky. I did this on Slic3r but the damn thing kept crashing.

So now I'm here :D But I'm trying to find the setting to add a little extra Z between the layers???

I've looked and searched... but maybe I'm missing if S3D calls it something else.

Thanks!
Jason

P.S. I'm running Sailfish 7.7 if it helps... anybody else have some tips? This is my first go at PETg
2012 10kw Dual LQ cooled Brusa powered Leaf "Astro"
10kw Enphase System,SolarWorld Panels, QuickMountPV- ALL USA!! + 3kw SW panels string tie.
I fly drones and R/C.
2014 Rav4 "SuperRav" JdeMO - 2015 Tesla 70d (Model 3 on deposit) 8-)
CompoundCarl
Posts: 2005
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:23 am

Re: PETg and need a little extra "depth" or Z - FFCP/Sailfis

When you say "add extra Z between each layer", so you mean just adding some extra offset at the very first layer? Or do you actually mean adding it between every single layer?

If you actually need it between every single layer, then I think the only way to do that would be to extrude less for each layer, which will inevitably leave more space between layers.
JasonA
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2016 1:10 pm
Location: SoCal -CA
Contact: Website

Re: PETg and need a little extra "depth" or Z - FFCP/Sailfis

So last week while pulling out my hair when Slic3r kept crashing, I almost had PETg printing great... and it was because of what people said to do with this..
Image
Lift Z - Raises the entire extruder on the Z axis by that many millimeters during each travel. This can be useful to ensure the nozzle will not catch on any already laid filament
I had it set to -0.06 before each layer wasn't grabbing and stringing. This seems common to PETg to add abit of "height" after each layer because PETg is like syrup and needs to harden abit.

I'm just trying to find or figure out where its called in S3D ??

Thanks!
2012 10kw Dual LQ cooled Brusa powered Leaf "Astro"
10kw Enphase System,SolarWorld Panels, QuickMountPV- ALL USA!! + 3kw SW panels string tie.
I fly drones and R/C.
2014 Rav4 "SuperRav" JdeMO - 2015 Tesla 70d (Model 3 on deposit) 8-)
MichaelHerron
Posts: 112
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2015 2:36 pm

Re: PETg and need a little extra "depth" or Z - FFCP/Sailfis

JasonA wrote:Hey everyone,

I'm coming from RepG and start to play with Slic3r but that just pissed me off too much. While I can print ANYTHING with RepG on ABS and PLA (been doing it for years) i've just started to play with eSUN PETg :shock:

Last week while frustrated I saw a great vid/tutorial saying you need -0.04 to -0.06 extra Z between each later because PETg is so sticky. I did this on Slic3r but the damn thing kept crashing.

So now I'm here :D But I'm trying to find the setting to add a little extra Z between the layers???

I've looked and searched... but maybe I'm missing if S3D calls it something else.

Thanks!
Jason

P.S. I'm running Sailfish 7.7 if it helps... anybody else have some tips? This is my first go at PETg
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jimc
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Location: mullica, nj
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Re: PETg and need a little extra "depth" or Z - FFCP/Sailfis

S3d calls it retraction vertical lift. Its on the first page or your process settings. Add a .2 in there. You should really do that for every print, not just ones with petg. The main problem people have with petg is that because its sticky it will collect on the nozzle. If your nozzle has a big lump of plastic stuck to it at the end of a print than that means your over extruding. Petg cant hande any overextrusion whatsoever. The filament dia and multiplier need to really be tuned in perfect for it
JasonA
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2016 1:10 pm
Location: SoCal -CA
Contact: Website

Re: PETg and need a little extra "depth" or Z - FFCP/Sailfis

jimc wrote:S3d calls it retraction vertical lift. Its on the first page or your process settings. Add a .2 in there. You should really do that for every print, not just ones with petg. The main problem people have with petg is that because its sticky it will collect on the nozzle. If your nozzle has a big lump of plastic stuck to it at the end of a print than that means your over extruding. Petg cant hande any overextrusion whatsoever. The filament dia and multiplier need to really be tuned in perfect for it
Great! thanks for the info! I'm going to try it here this morning with the 20x20m test cube and I'll come back with some results! ;)
2012 10kw Dual LQ cooled Brusa powered Leaf "Astro"
10kw Enphase System,SolarWorld Panels, QuickMountPV- ALL USA!! + 3kw SW panels string tie.
I fly drones and R/C.
2014 Rav4 "SuperRav" JdeMO - 2015 Tesla 70d (Model 3 on deposit) 8-)
JasonA
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2016 1:10 pm
Location: SoCal -CA
Contact: Website

Re: PETg and need a little extra "depth" or Z - FFCP/Sailfis

SUCCESS!!!

First test and the 20x20mm cube came out great (and dead on accurate!) on a 80*c bed, and I tried 240* half way through and then 245* 51% the rest of the way up and saw no difference in the print.

The base and walls are perfectly square but only at the top when it did the 3 top layers did it bow out abit. I'll have to look at the quality guide on what causes that.

Here's some pics and thanks again for everyone's input and help! :D
Jason

P.S. Don't mind the bottom "nub".. I had a dab of ABS hanging from the other extruder that caught while coming over :evil:

Image

Image

Image
2012 10kw Dual LQ cooled Brusa powered Leaf "Astro"
10kw Enphase System,SolarWorld Panels, QuickMountPV- ALL USA!! + 3kw SW panels string tie.
I fly drones and R/C.
2014 Rav4 "SuperRav" JdeMO - 2015 Tesla 70d (Model 3 on deposit) 8-)

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