Which setting to eliminate zits on this part?

[KC_703]

I will put the retraction back to where it was since as I mentioned things got worse when I added coast and went from 2.0 to 1.0 retraction.
/

Hard to tell which parameter caused the worsening of the print... coast or retraction. In both parametners, 0.1mm should go a long way. Using 1.0 is probably not granular enough for tweaking.

[Motolectric]

I changed the factor to 50 and the lines were reduced but a few are still there.

But my prints were all stopping after about 3 minutes.

After changing the models out (it printed a 12 minute small test print but failed on it the next time through)

After mucking around for 2 hours I gave up but will try again tonight.

The only variable I did not change was the process file which might now be corrupted (or something).

If it's not that then I may have a board issue which is exactly what I don't need.

[usagi]

print stopping is usually due to communications issues.

try printing from SD card?

[bray.christopher]

You could also add some vertical lift in combination with the retraction.

In the Extruder tab, in the Ooze Control settings, adjust the Retraction Vertical Lift. This should raise the hot end (or lower the bed) during retractions.

I have set up my default profiles to all have a Detour Factor of 10.

What material are you printing. I get this problem with XT, but PLA works beautifully.

[Motolectric]

>print stopping is usually due to communications issues.

try printing from SD card?


Thanks for that.

The next thing I was going to try was creating a new process to mimic the one I was using in case it had somehow become corrupted.

I did that and I also changed to the other USB port on my laptop as I remembered having some issue once with the other one (owrks fine for normal stuff).

In any case, at least one of the 2 cures worked and the print made it through.

I have half a thought that your recommendation was the one.

Thanks,

M./

[Motolectric]

>

So the zits are gone?

Now its just the ooze on the interior of the tray? Try lowering the extrusion temp a bit... that should reduce the oozing.


They are minimized.

I did set the temp down 10C and they are smaller. So I will try another 10C drop and see if that get it sorted.

Thanks,

M./

[Motolectric]

So I got a full print last night, the defects are somewhat minimal. And they are all on the inside of the tray.

Posting the below for for others to see what worked to get a pretty decent outer surface and an inside that needs minimal post processing.

This part has a fairly small audience and so I have expended more time/energy than is warranted but it was a learning experience.

( I might sell 5, so 16 hours of tweaking over a week is too much time).

I appreciate the input/advice from the forum members.

I ran the infill down to 50% which took 2 hours off the print time but it leaves a less professional looking top surface so if I print it again I will got back to 100%.

I think that setting is also what changed the layers from the diagonal fill to a rectangular perimeter fill.

The diagonal produces a stronger set of layers.

It was the cleaning up of the corners on the mounting tabs which is of the highest value as it was near impossible to get them cleaned up post print.

Hope this helps others.

Thanks,

M./

Preview of tray shown in photos

s3d.pd2.png (136.53 KiB) Viewed 4777 times

[usagi]

what layer height are you using? try 0.2mm

[Motolectric]

>what layer height are you using? try 0.2mm

0.2000

That's what I'm using.

I may fiddle with it further as I have somewhat of a test case here but as I posted previously the time to print and the low potential benefit limit me.

I have a smaller box (with 1 open side) that I print which is about 40X35X20 mm and it has none of these issues.

The walls are 1 mm.

So, it might have something to do with the wall thickness.

Thanks for the reply.

M>/