How to slow down the X/Y printing during fill?- SOLVED

[KC_703]

No, not just a little math, because if I want to change the infill speed I have to recalculate all the percentages every...single...time. It's a royal pain in the butt. And it frankly makes no sense to have the perimeter speed and the infill speed proportional to each other. The effects of speed change are nonlinear.

Why are you constantly adjusting your infill speed? Put it into spreadsheet, make a matrix... How are you determining the optimum absolute speed for your infill? Should review your workflow, if you ask me...

[JasonA]

Well I tried the different spool holder... don't know if it's because the filament is not as bright white so you don't see the lines as much but it looks smoother.

Of course the cream color looking one on the LEFT is the latest. I just can't figure out why I'm getting the lines??

Time to try the right extruder?

[CompoundCarl]

I'm not sure if you've seen this yet, but the S3D people have a nice section about this issue on their quality guide: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... e-of-print

It has a few other very relevant reasons such as filament variation and mechanical issues. Might be worth a read if you're still trying to track down what else could be causing it (my bet is on filament inconsistency!)

[JasonA]

I'm moving to the point that its a slightly bent Z rod/wobble or my steppings are off which is why I posted this earlier up in the thread..

http://www.toybuilderlabs.com/blogs/new ... yer-height

another great post...
https://www.evernote.com/shard/s211/sh/ ... dcdd2d687e

I don't know if just .20mm is what I should be using or 0.1905, 0.22225, etc..

I'm going to try the right ext real quick with the same filament and see.. if not.. call FlashForge (or just drive over there ) and get a new Z rod/motor

But this is a new FFCP

[JasonA]

Thought I would ask the pros on here.. but since this is a new FFCP, I just loaded the stock profile when I installed S3D... but this is what I show for settings. I notice there's a difference not in the Z but in the X/Y for the Replicators.

I'm all the way down to .90 on extrusion and it seems like its at the point of starvation or holes or gaps are appearing now in the walls.

But the lines are still there.

[wfcook]

Why are you constantly adjusting your infill speed? Put it into spreadsheet, make a matrix... How are you determining the optimum absolute speed for your infill? Should review your workflow, if you ask me...

For example, I have found that curved perimeters bond better with the infill when the infill speed, overlap, and angle settings are different than what is required for straight perimeters. Thin-walled objects with short infill may require slower speeds to avoid shaking the printer to death. Changing the material requires not only different speeds but different ratios. Three very good reasons just off the top of my head.

I didn't ask you about, nor do I want your opinion of, my workflow, because you know literally nothing about my printers, the materials I am using, the objects I am printing, or anything else I am doing, and have no business whatsoever opining on any of it. I printed over 200kg of filament in the last year and still have good reason to adjust the infill speed from time to time.

The fact remains that the effects of speed changes are non-linear, and making the speeds all proportional to infill speed makes little sense.

People make suggestions here on features they'd like to see. And there is always one guy who feels like it's an attack on the developers. It isn't. It is a request. You may like having to pull out a calculator every time you want to adjust infill speed without changing perimeter speed, or maybe you don't print enough to have the need to fine-tune a particular object so that you can get 100 good copies of it in the minimum amount of time. I do. An I personally find that not all objects printed in a particular material require the same infill speed.

[KC_703]

The fact remains that the effects of speed changes are non-linear, and making the speeds all proportional to infill speed makes little sense.

What?

Sounds like you've got some great information. A method for cataloging it could be invaluable to your workflow...

[JasonA]

Finally solved the issue (or so it seems!).. all this time the one thing I've never done or had to do (even on my old Creator) was measure the extrusion width my nozzles are putting out.

Do they punch these things out so fast that the dies start to get worn and I got a "BIGGER" one? I just did a simple filament load test for 30 and then printed a single wall cube for a bit... BOTH measured 0.64mm!!! not the standard .48 to .50 that I see everywhere and what S3D has plugged in.

I punched in .064 for extrusion width and .040 for nozzle (i guess??) and the first test globe came out almost like glass on the walls





the only thing I wonder is I circled it in RED... what looks like a wavy pattern or a Z wave in the side.. any thoughts?

I'm trying the Happy Cat now and we'll see what happens.. fingers crossed!

[KC_703]

Do they punch these things out so fast that the dies start to get worn and I got a "BIGGER" one? I just did a simple filament load test for 30 and then printed a single wall cube for a bit... BOTH measured 0.64mm!!! not the standard .48 to .50 that I see everywhere and what S3D has plugged in.

I punched in .064 for extrusion width and .040 for nozzle (i guess??) and the first test globe came out almost like glass on the walls

Glad to hear your working things out. I'm guessing that should be .64 for the extrusion width and and .40 for the nozzle diameter on the line above. I think S3D uses 120% the nozzle diameter if set to "Auto" which is where the .48 is derived.

A good explanation of the intricacies of extrusion width can be found in this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2232

the only thing I wonder is I circled it in RED... what looks like a wavy pattern or a Z wave in the side.. any thoughts?

Patterns like that are usually caused by mechanics of the printer. Possibly Z-wobble from the lead screw imperfections... a google search or forum for your printer might help find the last bit.

In any case, those prints look good. Maybe some post processing would eliminate the anomalies on the surface. If that's ABS, exposure to acetone vapors will help smooth. If other plastics, some sanding... or I've read people sandblasting to smooth the plastic.

[JasonA]

Yeah, I've been posting this stuff and getting some feedback on the Flashforge forum as well. Again, the only thing that bothers me is that my old Creator (Woody) never gave me these types of artifacts which really bugs me.

So FF support contacted me directly and asked a few questions, I directed them to this thread and the Google thread as well. They gave me a file to print and this was the result....

The file of course was built for the RIGHT extruder and I had PETg loaded into it but I figured what the hell... So I gave it a try, then unloaded and moved the ABS (white) into it...



The J1772 plug on the right is printed with my Woody at .15mm and the walls look like glass, no artifacts or anything.


So I asked him what res were these towers and he said .27mm and 2 shells

When I asked what were the "OTHER" recommended MM to print at, he said just .27...

This bugs me as I think .30mm is not a dividable # nor is .20mm so 0.03175, 0.0635, 0.09525, 0.127, 0.15875, 0.1905, 0.22225, 0.254, 0.28575, 0.3175, and 0.34925 mm/layer is ???

What do you guys think? I'm going by this page..
http://www.toybuilderlabs.com/blogs/new ... yer-height