andre
Posts: 72
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:53 pm

Reduce gaps in top layers

Want to make sure I have this right.

I calibrated my setup so that .90 multiplier @ 1.70 filament diameter @ .4mm manual width does in fact give me .4mm width extrusion when printing a single walled square.

Now, when I print that square with full fill, the top layers show some gaps. If I increase the manual width to .48mm, S3D will

a) extrude more filament per path traveled?
b) space out X and Y back and forth motion a bit more anticipating a .08mm increase in line width?
c) both?

I assumed both, so I tried it anyway. The gaps seemed to have disappeared, except I assume now my holes will be a bit smaller due to thicker layers.

Are these assumptions correct?
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jimc
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Re: Reduce gaps in top layers

i pick C. lol

yes it will do both.
andre
Posts: 72
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:53 pm

Re: Reduce gaps in top layers

Alright, I need a 101 lesson on this subject to be absolutely certain I have this right.

I have .40 nozzle, and am using .27mm layer height.

I calibrated S3D so that a multiplier of 1.10 @ extrusion width of 0.40mm with 1.70mm filament diameter gives me exactly 0.40 wide single walls. I then went to print a solid cube and noticed my dual shells don't touch each other, and my top layer has gaps.

So I assumed I need a wider extrusion width. Since I'm calibrated, I should be able to specify an extrusion width of 0.50mm (for example), and my shells should now touch. Also, my top layer should be closed up.

If S3D compensates by increasing the distance between X and Y moves, then I would still have the same gaps, just fatter extrusion widths. So, I assume S3D doesn't change the XY coordinates, right?
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jimc
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Re: Reduce gaps in top layers

if you change to a width of.50 then s3d will space the lines at .50 so your gaps will stay the same. i will say that you would be better off at a .50 width anyway. i have found that having your width the same as your nozzle can be tough. you want it a little higher. you get better layer bonding and it squishes the filament together a little bit more. as for the gaps are you absolutely sure you are getting .4 single line width? remember that when we 3d print as much as it looks like the layers line up, they are always just a hair off and when your talking such micro sized gaps between your filament lines that can be alot. now you have to multiply the misalignment by 2.... for each side. so overall yes your wall might be .4 but the actual line may not be...am i making sense lol. just for example, you could have 2 layers printed with a dia at .30 but if they are only .05 off as one layer is stacked on top of the other then you end up with a .4 wall. the # that makes the biggest change in the amount of plastic being extruded is the filament dia. be sure and double check that is correct and matches your filament exactly. the narrower the extrusion width the more accurate that needs to be. if that is right then start to adjust the multiplier so the lines just touch. once you do that then do a calibration cube. i bet you will be very close to right on the money. the thin walled tests i dont think work really well for calibration.
andre
Posts: 72
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:53 pm

Re: Reduce gaps in top layers

I'm certain I have the wall thickness calibrated correctly. Unfortunately, there are many variations, not only as you mentioned, but the first wall out of four is the thinnest since extrusion is just shooting out of it. I obviously average a bunch of readings.

I ended up raising the ext. multiplier until I had a solid top layer.

The next step, as you suggested, was to try .59mm extrusion width. Although the part seems to have a bunch more material, it is super strong. I cannot break it apart. I'll need to fine tune it from here and go backwards, reducing the extrusion width until my part looks half decent and cleaner.

I'll tell you one thing, Makerware right out of the box gave me perfect pieces. Unfortunately it also has other issues, thus the move to S3D.
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jimc
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Re: Reduce gaps in top layers

yes i would hope mw would. its all tuned to their printer and their filament. i think s3d will get you there and be better in the end but it will take time in tuning to get everything set right and really get to know the software. let me know how it all works out.

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