Top layer problem with small details

[Psychometer]

Hello,

I've got a very strange problem with my prints (currently with PLA).

When I print something with small details on the top of the print, it always ending up bad...

But when I print something with "no details", I don't have the top layers problem :

I've tried to set a higher number of top layers (up to 30...), but the "defaults" are always in the same layers...

I've looked on the troubleshooting guide, but I was not able to identify the problem...

I don't have access to my print settings right now, but I can upload it later today, and post pictures of my other prints with the same problem.

I've tried the 2 following prints, and both ends up with a really messy top.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2016098 (I didn't take a picture yet, but the details in the walls seems to print correctly)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:327753

Thanks in advance

[wirlybird]

What printer? What temps, speeds etc?

[Psychometer]

Yep, I've posted a little quickly, sorry...

Printer : Leapfrog Creatr HS, print with left extruder only

If I remember correctly (I'll post the print settings when I come home) :

Filament : PLA 1.75 mm
Extrusion multiplier : 1.00 (as recommended by Leapfrog)
Temperature : 220° C
Speed : 3000 mm/min
Filling : 30%, rectilinear
No support
Retract after each layer
Fan speed (after 10 layers ???) : 60%, 0 at the beginning

[Psychometer]

Ok, so here's another picture of my print problem :

And here's my factory file :

ScryingPool.factory

(1.95 MiB) Downloaded 236 times

I hope this is enough, I don't know what else to show

[wirlybird]

I haven't used the printer but I would suggest lower temp on the PLA. Probably 200 area and see how it goes. Use a calibration cube to test is best or your print if it does take to long!

Bed temp? Probably no more than 65 and maybe reduce after first layer especially if you get good adhesion.
Also ventilation for PLA!! Get the heat out! I take the covers off my printer for PLA.

Slow down some maybe 2000mm/min to see how it goes and fan on full after first layer. Slow printing is always a good place to start then as you get things dialed in you can start to increase the speed until it goes bad again!
Just some general suggestions.

[Psychometer]

I've relaunched a Bulbasaur print, with your recommendations (just a little more speed than 2000mm / min, it was not possible for me to do a 7h test print today )
I'll post the print result in about 3h.
Thanks for your help. I hope it'll solve the last problem I have with the printer, because I've not managed to do a nice and clean print since I've my printer...

[Psychometer]

5 hours later, same player play again...

I don't know what to do

[horst.w]

Your factory-file of the ScyingPool has no abnormalities. But I can't detect the problem on this picture. Please take a picture with details and well contrast and illumination.
The LayerHigh of only 0,10 mm may cause any isues, try it with 0,20 mm LH to see the differences.
A dobble-click on the object open a setting-window, there you can dump down the model in the virtual printtable to print only the critical parts of it.

Please attache also your factory-file of Bulbasaur.

regards
horst.w, GER

[Psychometer]

For the ScyingPool , I've already started to paint it, so It'll be ok.

Here's a picture of the last Bulbasaur I've tried to print, with 3 different processes. The bigger one at quick speed, because I dont care of that part for my test, then 2 different processes for the layers that includes the ears and the top of th printed figure.

Factory file :

bulbasaur_starter_1gen_flowalistik.factory

(17.41 KiB) Downloaded 214 times

I don't know if I'm right, but it seems that the print of the ears is not a "top layer", but only a standard layer. Is it possible that because le ears are not in the last 5 layers, then the print quality differs ?

[horst.w]

The model looks very strange for me, so like it is translucent.

S3D didn't find any issues, but surely the repair-function is not very successful.
I have imported the model to my CAD and transformed it to a solid (once more again?), now it seems to be ok.

Try out your improved model (reload from thingiverse)

h.