Nagisa
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun May 14, 2017 5:57 am

First layer and raft.

Hello! Newbie question.
First Layer Setting.JPG
First Layer Setting.JPG (8.5 KiB) Viewed 3153 times
If I use Raft, the first layer is first layer of raft or part?

Thanks.
User avatar
dkightley
Posts: 2405
Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2015 4:09 pm

Re: First layer and raft.

Its the first layer of the raft....
Doug Kightley
Volunteer at the National Tramway Museum http://www.tramway.co.uk
Railway modeller and webmaster at http://www.talkingtgauge.net
Nagisa
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun May 14, 2017 5:57 am

Re: First layer and raft.

dkightley wrote:Its the first layer of the raft....
Thnks! :D
jaystein
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon May 08, 2017 2:31 pm

Re: First layer and raft.

Nagisa wrote:Hello! Newbie question.
First Layer Setting.JPG
If I use Raft, the first layer is first layer of raft or part?

Thanks.
While rafts are good sometimes and for different plastics, I found that printing without a raft is In most cases better. You may have to tweak your first layer settings to get the nozzle far enough away from the print bed.
Using Gluestick is the best for PLA
for ABS you may need a strong acrylic binder. I personally don't recommend ABS juice.

My settings on a Wanhao dup + i3 are

first layer height 500
first layer width 101
First layer speed 40 or 50.

I also recommend using a q-card for calibrating the printbed as opposed to just a sheet of plain paper as it's about twice as thick.
bgfireguy92
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue May 23, 2017 8:18 pm

Re: First layer and raft.

Wow 500% on your first layer height? Thats HUGE? But it works well?
jaystein
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon May 08, 2017 2:31 pm

Re: First layer and raft.

bgfireguy92 wrote:Wow 500% on your first layer height? Thats HUGE? But it works well?
Yes it puts down a good first layer without smashing the plastic down too flat. Just remember I use a q-card to calibrate, and I make sure there is a lot of drag on the paper when I'm calibrating. If you use a regular sheet of paper then I would say to use 550% or 600%. I'm not sure why that high percentage works, it may be measured in microns. It is also better to have the nozzle further away from the print bed when calibrating so as not to damage the buildtak or glass/acrylic and to prevent flow stoppage.
Oh and using gluestick for PLA is important when printing without a raft.

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