Keep in mind that I love this software and promote it to everyone I know who prints. But I'm going to complain about this one 'feature".
Interesting document, though the software appears to do things that are quite confusing, since the behavior is weirdly different between "under 100%" and "over 100%", which is a clue that they've combined two things that shouldn't be combined. Worse, in neither case is it actually controlling the first layer height. Changing the layer height should simply change the layer height, with all other parameters (e.g. proper extrusion volume) behaving normally. Instead they've constructed a weird set of interactions and special cases that pretty much never does what you want.
Instead, for "over 100% layer height" it actually uses 100% layer height, making it useless, because the entire point of increasing the layer height for layer one is to actually increase the layer height. Instead, it counter-intuitively leaves the layer height unchanged and over-extrudes, which has nothing to do with layer height. Confusing people because it's not doing what it says it will do.
And for "under 100% layer height" it does actually reduce the layer height but extrudes for 100% of the layer height. That's not the layer height, that's adjusting the Z calibration down to squish the print into the print bed. And it confuses people, because it's not doing what it says it will do.
To clarify this confusing mess, I'd suggest:
- Layer one height should be a numeric setting (e.g. 0.3 mm) for the height of the first layer. No special meanings or "clever" side effects.
- If you want to over-extrude layer 1, add a "Layer one extrusion rate" setting that would be a percentage multiplier to the properly computed extrusion rate. e.g. 110% would extrude 10% too much plastic, to help squish onto the print bed. Over-extrusion is sometimes useful, but you need to know that's what you're doing, explicitly.
- If you want to have an offset to Z=0 height, they should add that as a setting, though IMO it's a bad idea. Normally setting Z=0 is done in the firmware or by turning screws on the print bed or Z end-stop, not in the slicer. If it's done in the slicer you end up generating bad gcode to compensate for a mis-configured printer, so as soon as you properly configure your printer your prints fail, and it's much better for all concerned to get the printer configured consistently, so you don't need to re-slice everything whenever your print bed wiggles. Remember, gcode has a longer lifespan than a single print - you can re-print a file a week or a month later, and it should still work, even if you've re-leveled your print bed.