horst.w
Posts: 861
Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2014 5:00 pm

Re: thin wall printing z Seam issues

Thanks, thats the summe of experiences over years, but they are not imperatively, you must play with them. And keep in mind that all settings maybe obsolete when changing the material, also only role by role from the same manufactor. They are different, more or less!
To change the multiplier only for 0.02 points seams not very courageous, thats a value to fine tuning when the general value is found out. Don't hasitate to begin with 0.95 when the diameter is messured very exaktly with a micrometer screw (>>>Tab Others). It makes also differences when the filament is not round, than use the middle between the both axis.
The retract is determined from some parameters, the bowden is one of the importante. Goal of retract is to set the pressure inside the nozzle to zero and pull back material from the outlet, so it can not leak; the negativ value of the restart considers that the pull-back of retract never can clean the nozzle, there are staying always rests of material inside and when restart to the zero-level on the tip of the nozzle material is coming out before the nozzle is placed. This all is also depending from the temperature and the viscosity of the material. Normally material becomes more fluid when you heat up and only some degrees can made the difference, but some materials act reverse, they become more doughy.
These are all points to consider and it is not the end! Play with them and make your own experiences.




Alan555 wrote:Just one observation. PLA does need cooling ...
That is the generally meaning! PLA needs cooling, it is the question how to determine the quantity.
PLA of the first days was pur and it had the very strong property to warp. And it seamed that PLA is a bad heat conductor and stores heat inside very well. Therefore differences of temperatures inside and outside were significante.
How to cool down don't play a importante role, when the print time of a layer is sufficient to cool down independently than you need no fan-cooling.
But you are right, I think also making "stormy weather" on the tip of the nozzle is not needed or only for extremly conditions.

ABS is very sensitive against any draft, even the draft of an opened window. Using the fan cooling is pur poison as well as blowing from one side . Nevertheless I use mostly the fan minimal +/- 5 to 15%, that will stabilize the nozzles temperature.


Regards
horst.w
GER

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