Ball form comes loose from bed

[airscapes]

And to make the support a little more rigid, try setting the Support infill angles to 45, 45, 45, 45,45,45,-45

The support will look like this....Capture.JPG


This technique works well on tall thin supports....gives it a lot of strength.

Not sure if that was directed at me or the OP.. think that is the hand gauntlet jig you used for demo purposes.. I never used Dense support is the lack of lower support going to be an issue for me?
I have tried multiple angels on small stuff in the past and it didn't do so well. I can see how it would be helpful here. Hopefully it will work as I have it.. got another couple hours to go!

[airscapes]

Cor setting Doug provided worked very very well for my similarly shaped part. I was really happy with the way the surface above the support turned out. This was my first large ABS print with support and I really like the results.

[dkightley]

That looks pretty good!!! Or should I say.....really good!!

Its been sort of a well kept secret that the changes in either v4.0.0 or v4.0.1 (can't remember which) had a tremendous impact on the quality of prints above supports.

I found that I had to make massive changes to the individual support settings after installing the upgrade. Not because the changes demanded it....but because the whole support vs part interface was working tons better; for instance I previously used 2 or 3 layers separation, and changed it to 1 layer. I did mention this in a post early after the release....but my comments seemed to be either ignored or overlooked in the "let's find a fault in the upgrade" fever there was at the time.

[airscapes]

The thing that is so hard is the Huge learning curve when first staring and time required to get to an understanding.
I knew there would be one, but the Art of 3D printing is a long way from plug and play.
The fact that one set of setting can work wonderful with one filament and model, but fail miserably with the next model or different filament is really not something one understand when first starting out, nor is it really advertised.
Every model and new filament, is a new learning adventure.
I know people don't tell you this Doug, but from one Doug to another, I really appropriate the help and guidance you provide. As someone who has participated in forums for years, I realize how trying it can be explaining the same thing over and over. Thank you very much for your support!

[Cor]

Back again , after 6 hours of printing.

I used the "Unlimbited Phoenix Jig Maker Gear ABS Nat .35 N EM .94 20pc infill supports 4mm20pc 3 solid lay 4 layers 75pc Dens supt.factory" deleted the model inserted my wheelpant. than it went a bit wrong , since it was probably for another printer, dimensions were not OK. But I changed them and the results are not great.

It seems the model comes loose from the support (front and aft).

Also I noticed that the 2 pieces which were the beginning of the issue ( first post this thread) were warping (probably also comming loose from the support. I have not yet a lot of experience with 3D printing , but it looks like warping is the issue here. The tips bend up I see , and everytime the nozle pushes it down.
Although I have a heated bed and a full enclosure .

Tja .. it seems this model is not possible to print without cutting it in half.

Or does some else have still some options to change?

A previous post someone posted about acceleration/jerk . but I am unable to find these settings , where can I find them?

Many thanks for you help ,
Cor

[airscapes]

Cor can you post the STL or a link to it?
Use the settings Doug posted, my file did not include extra inflation which would wrap around the part more.
Also you may want to rotate the part 180 on the bed . I am thinking maybe the point that warps is facing the door of the enclosure? Turn it the other way may help. You also may want to scale it down in size by half and see if it prints any better, will not use so much plastic and get done faster. Once you get the issue resolved you can print it full sized. Smaller also may work as it will be shorter and maybe not warp as much..
Keep at it, like i said above this is a big learning curve.

[greybeard]

As you gather info toward a solution, you’ll realize that everyone has their ‘own’ preferred print settings and approaches (and learned-lessons).

The final solution will be ‘what ends up working for you and your particular part’. So, it’s really all about “trial and error”.

The print material and Brand of material is something to consider: ABS needs a fairly warm environment (enclosure).
The infill patterns and angles add to the overall shrinkage aspects which, are compounded by the shape of your part.

Like others have done, I’ve tested a dozen brands of ABS and PLA filament and learned that some are better (and worse) than others and storage of filament plays a role (moisture content changes and affects the part).

I switched from ABS to PLA and haven’t printed ABS in two years and, along the way, the brand, ‘eSun PLA’ has become my go-to material for everything. I recommend eSun and I avoid HatchBox. I’d be curious to see your part print with PLA (and using the file I posted - it’s tweaked for my Prusa I3 MK3 printers from lot’s of testing… on the type of parts I design).

For reference, go the the link in my signature (below) and look at some parts - particularly, the larger parts: Tablet Holder, Gastank Cover, Air Cleaner Cover and some Pump Aid’s. All are PLA and some have print settings…

Without a reference measurement, your part looks rather large so, the infill may be playing a role in the curling. But, there are other parameters to play around with and dial-in.

Finally, I mentioned splitting the part lengthwise - you can avoid actually splitting the part model and simply sink the part into the Bed (adjust the Z height) in Simplify and, for the other half, rotate it 180 and sink it again… That way, you get the full length of the part on the Bed so your part can stick to the bed...

[Cor]

so frustrating .... I was hoping this 3D printing was a little bit easier.... nah ja ..... the story continues.

@ Greaybeard: I am using the white ABS from Prusa , I expect this is a good quality. After I get some good prints , than my plan is to try out some different brands.
The reason I want to use ABS , is that I mainly bought my 3D printer for model airplane parts, so they need to be a bit sturdy ( vibrations) but the most important s the heat, the parts will be in the full sun with high temperatures for a day. I understand PLA is a no-no for that , PETg could be a solution as well. I don't really want to print in PLA , since I will not likely print in PLA in the future for the reason above.

The part is quite big , it spans the whole diagonal of the bed ( 25 cm long) , my printer is in a full enclosure and also the door it "airtight" , there is no air-drought. I don't think rotating the part will make a difference.

@ Airscapes: the STL file is 9MB big, I can not attach it here. Is there a simple option I can upload it somewhere?
I also used 2 days ago the settings from Doug, but I needed to cancel the print. This happened on this trial:

Back to my trial from last night.
I split the part vertical, which made sense to me, so I could easily fix them together. Unfortunately it went t*ts up again. Initially it looked very good so I let it continue to print last night , but when I woke up...... again lots of plastic to throw away.
The top part is bad, lots of sagging . Maybe I need to alter the bridge settings?
Also an issue with crashing of the Y-axe, 14x my prusa detected it. and it also shows in the model. I think it is due to the speed. I bumped it up again to the (standard) 4800mm/min, previously I had set it to 3500. Next try will be with 3500mm/min again.
Some one posted a couple of posts before to lower the acceleration/jerk. I notice with the infill it does , they are very short/ violent moves. It doesn't look right . Anywhere I can change this?

I will now try to split the part in half again , but horizontally this time.

Thanks,
Cor

[airscapes]

Cor, PETg may be a better option, it is easy to print, does not warp and tougher than ABS. I have a roll of eSun white which has worked really well for everything I used it on so far.
Just so you know, I had the back corner of the thumb I was printing warp off the bed twice last night.. would not happen with PETG which is what I will use with all future parts of this type. This is just how abs acts acts as It is not a plastic designed for FFF it is for infection molding..
Good luck and keep at it, you are learning a lot with every print, trust us, we have all been there and I can tell you I am still there at time!

[greybeard]

I think I see your problem but, first:

1. PLA versus ABS: ABS is good for things dealing with chemicals. PLA is stronger than ABS in most every respect and certainly in anything you’ll make.

I say that as an engineer and rocket scientist for 50 yrs! The PLA that was on the market when 3D printing started was not the same PLA made today.

If you Google a bit on the subject of PLA strength (using info from engineers/testing services and manufacturers) you’ll switch to PLA in a heart-beat. I’ve destruction-tested parts and wound up giving away all my ABS. I even use it on my Harley’s gas tank - been on the bike for 3yrs!!

Attached is a summary sheet from eSun. Different brands have different spec’s.

Now, to what I think is the problem: SPEED, SPEED, SPEED

2. True, I don’t know the spec’s on your machine but, on my two Prusa’s and my DaVinci, even though the spec’s indicate they will run fast, the prints that came out were trash - many looked like yours and worse.

After much testing, I dialed in the best speeds for my machines and parts. Attached shows the data.

I’m certain slowing down will fix your problem, regardless of ABS/PLA… But, please also make the settings I use in the file I provided - they will help ensure success…

I suggest using my speeds and my settings before doing anything else. NOTE: The reason your lower layers are okay - the default speed settings reduce the speed to some percentage for the first several layers... look at my speed settings screenshot. Machine cannot push out enough melted plastic at high speeds so, it strings, doesn't bond and suspends in air...