greybeard
Posts: 178
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:23 pm

Re: Ball form comes loose from bed

I forgot to answer your 'jerk' question... (I posted the comment about jerk)

The two ways to change the Jerk Acceleration that I know of (and have done) are:

1) From the the user panel on my Prusa's - you'll need to dig into your user panels/sub-panels to find it (I'm assuming your brand has them, as most all do).

2) You can edit the controller code (it's probably Marlin so, you can use Arduino IDE). This is not for everyone's ability, though easy. There are posts on the Net about how to do it.

The simple way is from the user panel (my panel screenshot...)
Attachments
jerk.png
3D Print Parts
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Cor
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2018 4:50 pm

Re: Ball form comes loose from bed

@ Greybeard: Thanks, I was looking in the simplify software for the acceleration/jerk. It is a prusa i3mk3 , so I will dig into the settings on the machine itself. Yesterday I did a tril with a bit slower settings (3500mm/min) and it look quite Ok, I can use these forms finally. The only issue is the top.
20180707_144320 (Medium).jpg
20180707_144310 (Medium).jpg
Everything looks fine , except for the very top part , it looks like the bridge/gap is a bit too big. I tried to play a little bit with the bridge settings , but it doesn't seem to do anything. Any pointers how I can make the top better ( from the first picture)?

Thanks,
Cor
greybeard
Posts: 178
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:23 pm

Re: Ball form comes loose from bed

First - review Simplify’s print quality guide for tip’s and solutions to common problems.

Second - settings for quality prints are inter-related with respect to outcome. To solve quality problems, it’s all about trial and error. Infill, Outline overlap, Infill pattern and density, Temp, Number of Top Layers…. etc… etc… And, of course, material type...

For a problem such as the final top surface, I would do this:

Sink the part into the bed so only the top section will print (but, ensure it’s above the lower layers where the speed is slowed by the software). You should see the same problem. Now, you can test various settings without wasting too much time and filament.

Lastly, just because the car speedometer indicates 140MPH, doesn’t mean you should drive 140MPH (sorry).

Print machines are rated for the Speed of Head travel, not the speed of Printing (melting and pumping out filament).

Aside from the settings, type of filament, brand, color (especially white)… all play a role and the manufacturer has no idea of what you’ll use or print…

You’re almost there!
3D Print Parts
https://www.thingiverse.com/Still_Breathing/designs
blackbird2016
Posts: 134
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2017 1:24 am

Re: Ball form comes loose from bed

Your last prints look kind of acceptable.
I understand, that you are just starting with 3D-printing.
If so, such a part is quite a challenge.
I too, would strongly advise to dial your printer, and knowledge too, in with the usual marvins and benchys until they are good.
Those two half shells you already made would have come out quite perfect with some supports beneth the "roof".
On the whole you seem to be on the right way with a printer decent enough...
Cor
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2018 4:50 pm

Re: Ball form comes loose from bed

@ blackbird2016: yes indeed , it does not look bad at all.

Maybe it was indeed a better idea to do first the benchy and so.... but I thought the wheelpant was not a difficult model. I was so wrong :?
About using supports; That would mean I have to use supports inside the whole model. Is it possible to only place supports let's say in the middle of the model?, only there where the top/roof is very flat?

@ Greybeard: I am reading a lot on 3D printing , it is a lot of stuff to handle. I found a nice manuel someone wrote on simplify3D. But still ... so many parameters and variables.
It took me a while how to sink the model , but I found it, and could now more easily play with bridge settings:
2018-07-08 18_42_15-$.jpg
2018-07-08 18_42_00-$.jpg
I think the outcome will be better like this. Next week when I will be home again I will try this.
*edit* , someone tipped me about changing the "top solid layers" , now it is 3 , more should sove this problem as well

I will also try to print this with Petg , reading on that it says , this will be easier , and also good enough for outside temperatures in the sun.
Would it be possible to print this in 1 go ( not in half like I did yesterday) since I understand it is almost impossible to glue Petg parts together.
What I am worries about is the bottom again, which rest on the supports , that it is not smooth enough.

Cor
greybeard
Posts: 178
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:23 pm

Re: Ball form comes loose from bed

The only reason I use Simplify (versus Slic3r) is for it’s ability to add and delete supports where I want and how I want. Great feature!

For your part, you can Add supports in the support pop-up and place them (with the mouse) where you want (most likely under the top where its flatter). See tutorials.

You can set the support size dimensions/spacing/angles…etc and I suggest some playing around to fully understand it so as to be able to do what you want without too much trouble.

Yes, you got the idea of sinking.

Printers are funny about the material they print - not all nozzle/heater and FF drive gears are happy with all materials. Try to sample some material before investing too much time and money.

Regarding printing in one fell-swoop, well, I think you’ll need supports.

Having said that, if a beautiful finished part is what you want, well, print with PLA and supports to get the part printed, glue it together and finish it like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vgynnY ... gs=pl%2Cwn

I've become a big fan of PLA - it's approved for medical implants and food containers. Doesn't off-gas bad stuff so it's good for printing inside my office on cold day with windows closed. ABS off-gassing is bad for breathing.
3D Print Parts
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Cor
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2018 4:50 pm

Re: Ball form comes loose from bed

@ Greybeard: somehow I missed your post number 70 ..... an important post. SO I am printing to fast .... The default was set at 4800mm/min , but I got a lot of Y-ax crashes/ layer shifting. On my latest trial I got 0 with a speed of 3800mm/min. I will slow down a bit more..... at least for trial.
I also checked if I could find settings for jerk / acceleration , but there is no settings page for that on my Prusa I3mk3. I will ask on the prusa forum next.

Today was a whole day of watching youtube videos , tutorials, pdf files... learned a lot! Found also how to set manuel supports! Nice feature.


So you guys are saying for my model airplanes which are a full day in the blistering sun , I can use PLA? I have put a PLA -test Prusa-logo outside Sunday , let's see how that looks when I am home again next week.
Cor
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2018 4:50 pm

Re: Ball form comes loose from bed

Have been playing a bit with the programm the last couple of days and a question.

I have drawn a thicker part :
2018-07-11 21_54_49-$.jpg
2018-07-11 21_54_21-$.jpg
When I slice it , it kinda looks it is a seperate part, which it is offcource. But will is be bonded with the rest of the wheelpant , or will it not be a part which is attached firmly?
How would I optimize this?
2018-07-11 21_54_04-$.jpg
Many thanks,
Cor
User avatar
dkightley
Posts: 2405
Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2015 4:09 pm

Re: Ball form comes loose from bed

Use the Separate Connected Surface option on the Mesh dropdown. You're now suffering from multiple meshes...which fortunately is not terminal!
Doug Kightley
Volunteer at the National Tramway Museum http://www.tramway.co.uk
Railway modeller and webmaster at http://www.talkingtgauge.net
Cor
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2018 4:50 pm

Re: Ball form comes loose from bed

Yep , awesome. The wording "seperate connected surface" wasn't very clear . I wanted the surfaces to bond together , not to seperate ...... but it does exactly what you promise.

Many thanks,
Cor

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