Heat the bed first and then nozzle

[Bossie_48]

Great idea, attached yu find a factoryfile of a H0 10feet container.
Hope someone has a hint I can use.

best regards Piet.

[greybeard]

Note: Marlin and Repeater are similar but, not the same - not all G and M codes work across them.
It's important to use the correct code and format.
You can Google them...

I recommend trying these Start Codes, just as shown, before doing much else - these work on both of my machines (Marlin)

M140 S50; set bed temp to 50 deg
M190 S50; wait until bed is at 50 deg
M104 S210 T0; set extruder temp to 210 deg
M109 S210 T0; wait until extruder is 210 deg

Afterwards, change the Temp's as desired

[Bossie_48]

I will try, but one question.
In Simplify3D I have the bed and nozzle temperature set to the values 55 and 210.
When I use your code, Do I have to ommit these settings?

[greybeard]

These are the lines to put in Gcode start script.

M140 S55; set bed temp to 55 deg
M190 S55; wait until bed is at 55 deg
M104 S210 T0; set extruder temp to 210 deg
M109 S210 T0; wait until extruder is 210 deg

Set the Temps in the Process as usual but, add my lines to the Gcode start script.
Also, ensure the boxes are checked to make it wait, as shown in my first post.

Doing as I suggest should make the machine heat the bed and wait until bed is at 55 for 5 seconds. Then, the extruder will heat to 210 and when it reaches 210 for 5 seconds, the print will start.

The 5 seconds is default setting in the Marlin firmware.

[Bossie_48]

I was a bit puzzled by the temps you mentioned.
And was wondering if they overide the settings in the temp tab of S3D.
Yes I have the wait boxes checked.

OOPS - Not clear on what you're saying:

Thats probably because my English need some polishing, it is not my native language.

[greybeard]

So, to be clear,

You do the Temp settings in Simplify AND in the Gcode. Both places.

Why both places? Because without specifically instructing the machine to wait, the extruder and bed can heat at the same time.
Even though there is a checkbox, I don't trust myself to ensure I always check it.

Yes, the Gcode will override the simplify setting.

You can open the Gcode file in any text editor and look at the placement of the lines...

[Bossie_48]

All right, thanks for the assistance.
Will alter the settings, next weekend and let you know my progres.

[joaojoao]

yes, the start gcode I posted is for a two extruders machine...

If you have one extruder you can try modify the order of the code you just posted:

M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; set temp for bed do not wait
M190 S[bed0_temperature] ; wait for bed to reach temp
M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set temp for extruder 0 do not wait
M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; wait for extruder 0 to reach temp

And you can also add the G1 command for allow the nozzle to move into a specific area or your print bed and at a certain z height before all heats up. You have to be carefull because your Z=0 maybe to hight or to low, and you can scratch the bed, or if it is to hight, it can not avoid oozing:
G28
G1 X0 Y200 Z0 F3600

This command allow homing all axis before anything, then the G1 command moves the nozzle to X=0mm from origin, Y=200 and Z=0 at 60mm/s (3600mm/min). You can mess around with the values to whatever you want to avoid oozing at a certain bed position. If your bed is 200mmX200mm you can choose X=5 and Y=195 for example. The Z=0 should work if you have your Z offset properly calibrated.

[Bossie_48]

Hello guy's thank you both for the help you've offered me.
But both additoins don't seem to work with the stock A8 firmware, alas.
At the moment I'm building an AM8 with Marlin firmware and I'll try your additons when this pronter is ready.

best regards and again thanks for your time.

[greybeard]

Very Interesting... Hard to say why it's not working for you. You may need to tweak the Marlin firmware...

I looked at the A8/etc printers and, except for some things, they basically look like the Hictop printers I built from kits.
Some of the same parts such as the bearing mounts and the hot-end carrier appear to be identical.

If they are the same, Given that you indicated you're building a printer, you may be interested in parts I designed to modify mine to accommodate a V6 hot-end.

The parts and links with video are at https://www.thingiverse.com/Still_Breathing/designs.