Volcano 0.8mm Nozzle on a CR-10 - Settings?

[DotScott1]

Alright so... it's been a year or two since I've asked and I STILL have not perfected settings for my 0.8mm volcano nozzle/hot end on my CR-10S 400... They still just don't come out very clean. Either the walls look great but the tops and bottoms look bad OR the tops and bottoms look good and the walls look bad. Can't seem to get it just right. It's always over extrusion in some areas and under extrusion in others.

Before I post my settings, I'd love to see what everyone else is using for their 0.8mm volcano nozzles... specifically on a bowden setup like a CR-10.

[Oncology Engineer]

Hi DotScott1,
I've got the exactly same issue using the volcano on a very expensive (>40K) printer. I've even dropped down to a 0.4 nozzle with similar results, better but no where near as good as my $500 CR-10s. I'm just about to post a Marvin in the hope someone might see something I could do to improve. And because it uses the Dyze PT100 sensor I can't change the hotend easily.

You probably won't get a response here, so try this link;
https://www.akeric.com/blog/?tag=volcano-print-settings

Regards,
Adam

[wirlybird]

Just to add to this in hopes of more info I have a recently purchased Fusion3 F3410 with the Volcano and a 0.4mm hardened nozzle.
It is also a Bowden setup.
Fusion3 has spent a lot of time making S3D profiles so that is helpful to get going but I also see some issues.

So far I have switched the hardened nozzle to a Micro-Swiss high-flow plated nozzle since I mostly do PLA. This is helping.
I am also redesigning the part cooling fan duct for better PLA cooling and we'll see how that goes.

I think once I get the cooling dialed in I'll be off to the races.

I am new to a Bowden style printer but I'd be happy to share any settings I am using.

[DotScott1]

Hi DotScott1,
I've got the exactly same issue using the volcano on a very expensive (>40K) printer. I've even dropped down to a 0.4 nozzle with similar results, better but no where near as good as my $500 CR-10s. I'm just about to post a Marvin in the hope someone might see something I could do to improve. And because it uses the Dyze PT100 sensor I can't change the hotend easily.

You probably won't get a response here, so try this link;
https://www.akeric.com/blog/?tag=volcano-print-settings

Regards,
Adam

Thanks for the link! It's unfortunate that there's no readily available S3D profile for this type of setup (0.8mm nozzle specifically). I mean, seems like enough people have them. And I'd upload one myself... if I could get it to work right. But then maybe that's the problem: Maybe everyone is having trouble with this type of setup :/

[wirlybird]

Hi DotScott1,
I've got the exactly same issue using the volcano on a very expensive (>40K) printer. I've even dropped down to a 0.4 nozzle with similar results, better but no where near as good as my $500 CR-10s. I'm just about to post a Marvin in the hope someone might see something I could do to improve. And because it uses the Dyze PT100 sensor I can't change the hotend easily.

You probably won't get a response here, so try this link;
https://www.akeric.com/blog/?tag=volcano-print-settings

Regards,
Adam

Thanks for the link! It's unfortunate that there's no readily available S3D profile for this type of setup (0.8mm nozzle specifically). I mean, seems like enough people have them. And I'd upload one myself... if I could get it to work right. But then maybe that's the problem: Maybe everyone is having trouble with this type of setup :/

Are there profiles for other nozzle sizes?
One of those should be fine but just change the nozzle size and extrusion width.
Most of the other settings should be ok except you may need to adjust speed and temps.

[Oncology Engineer]

*** Update ***

After your post I had a new inspiration to see what I could do to make a decent print, Feel free to continue the work.

Firstly, switch your extrusion width to manual and adjust down to the the nozzle size. For a 0.4 nozzle, set it at 0.4. A 0.8 set it to 0.8
With the extrusion multiplier set to 1.00 print out a hollow box (not in vase mode). Zero top and bottom layers, one outline perimeter.
measure the thickness with accurate verniers. Mine was 0.45. Use the equation nozzle size / measured value. So for me it was 0.4/0.45=0.88.
That's your extrusion multiplier. If you were to reprint the box it should measure exactly the extrusion width value now.

Now, for my machine these values seem to be about right but may not be for yours. Retraction distance I have 2.2 and a -0.1 restart, lift 0.4, speed 30, coast 1.2, wipe 2mm.

Because I'm using ABS I'm around 245 deg C on the nozzle and for Layer tab 0.2 and the Speeds tab I've turned it way down to 25mm/s.

Hopefully I've given you the main changes but I made a near perfect Marvin with excellent resolution. Changing the speed back to 50 mm/s the print was good but no longer outstanding. With the results I got I actually think that I could eventually like this hotend.

Other research I've found indicates you can increase your speed if you decrease your layer height but I'm yet to confirm this.

Cheers,

Adam

[jgwinner]

I'm also having horrible luck.

I'm also the volcano on PETG which is pretty bad for stringing ANYWAY. I get a lot of 'leaves' sticking upfrom the interior fill (due to the bridging issues with PETG I run never less than 30% fill). The print heads makes a grinding noise all the time as it prints; it makes me shudder.

I've tried a LOT of different settings. As you mention earlier, it seems like a common part, yet settings are really absent. I wonder if it's a part everyone buys but no one uses

== John ==