Stringing

[jamesadoty]

Lots and lots of stringing.

I'm trying to get Simplify3D tuned in for my Tronxy X5SA and really struggling with a couple of settings.

These settings are for PLA.

Extruder:
Retraction distance: 4.00mm
Retraction Vertical Lift: 1.00mm
Retraction Speed: 9000mm/min

Layer:
First Layer Height: 75%
First Layer Speed: 35%

Temperature:
Extruder 1: 200
Heated Bed: 60

Cooling:
Layer 1: 0
Layer 2 60%

Fan override
Increase fan speed for layers below 60sec
Maximum cooling fan speed 60%
Bridging fan speed override 100%

Speeds:
Default Printing Speed: 5000.0mm/min, I suspect this is way too fast. It had been set to 6000.0mm/min but that caused extruder skipping
Outline Underspeed: 50%
Solid infill underspeed: 80%
X/Y Axis Movement Speed 4800.0 mm/min
Z Axis Movement Speed 1,000.0mm/min

I have the fan speed turned down because between the hot end fan and the part fan speeds higher than 60% prevent my hot end from staying at 200c.

I've replaced the F-Mini board with a Duet 2 Wifi board and other than massive stringing the printer is producing good looking prints.

I've tried but can't find any definitive settings for this printer.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[Overheal]

I'm having similar issues on a Fusion 3 F410 but for a start, I'd reccomend you increase your retraction distances since its a Bowden, it could want to retract more than 5 mm. Also try increasing your temperatures.

Try using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076 and S3D's variable settings wizard to play with different temperatures and see the difference. You will probably see less stringing with a higher temp. You can also try instead of incrementing the temp at each level, incrementing other settings like the retraction distance at each level to compare results.

[Raise3D Pro Plus 2]

First try to dry it. 10 hours at 40C.

[wirlybird]

I'm having similar issues on a Fusion 3 F410 but for a start, I'd reccomend you increase your retraction distances since its a Bowden, it could want to retract more than 5 mm. Also try increasing your temperatures.

Try using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076 and S3D's variable settings wizard to play with different temperatures and see the difference. You will probably see less stringing with a higher temp. You can also try instead of incrementing the temp at each level, incrementing other settings like the retraction distance at each level to compare results.

Hi, I just got an F410 and was testing some prints. I did their torture test using their PLA profile and found that if I use a temp of 215 I get a lot of stringing but when I run it at their profile temp of 230 virtually no stringing.
This seems to go against the logic of reducing temp to help reduce stringing.
I'm new to Bowden so maybe it is stuff I do not know yet.

Curious on any thoughts on tis or in general on the printer.

[Overheal]

I'm having similar issues on a Fusion 3 F410 but for a start, I'd reccomend you increase your retraction distances since its a Bowden, it could want to retract more than 5 mm. Also try increasing your temperatures.

Try using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076 and S3D's variable settings wizard to play with different temperatures and see the difference. You will probably see less stringing with a higher temp. You can also try instead of incrementing the temp at each level, incrementing other settings like the retraction distance at each level to compare results.

Hi, I just got an F410 and was testing some prints. I did their torture test using their PLA profile and found that if I use a temp of 215 I get a lot of stringing but when I run it at their profile temp of 230 virtually no stringing.
This seems to go against the logic of reducing temp to help reduce stringing.
I'm new to Bowden so maybe it is stuff I do not know yet.

Curious on any thoughts on tis or in general on the printer.

That's consistent with my results printing PLA temperature towers, and I found it odd since most online communities would tell you stringing happens less at the lower end of the transition temps.

[wirlybird]

I'm having similar issues on a Fusion 3 F410 but for a start, I'd reccomend you increase your retraction distances since its a Bowden, it could want to retract more than 5 mm. Also try increasing your temperatures.

Try using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076 and S3D's variable settings wizard to play with different temperatures and see the difference. You will probably see less stringing with a higher temp. You can also try instead of incrementing the temp at each level, incrementing other settings like the retraction distance at each level to compare results.

Hi, I just got an F410 and was testing some prints. I did their torture test using their PLA profile and found that if I use a temp of 215 I get a lot of stringing but when I run it at their profile temp of 230 virtually no stringing.
This seems to go against the logic of reducing temp to help reduce stringing.
I'm new to Bowden so maybe it is stuff I do not know yet.

Curious on any thoughts on tis or in general on the printer.

That's consistent with my results printing PLA temperature towers, and I found it odd since most online communities would tell you stringing happens less at the lower end of the transition temps.

My conclusion on this is it is their hardened nozzle. These are a whole different game when it comes to lower temps. In my opinion thay are not great for PLA either.
You generally need 10-15 degrees more for the nozzle and they are not great at maintaining a steady temp.

I have switched to E3D all brass for PLA and it is working nicely.

[Overheal]

Hi, I just got an F410 and was testing some prints. I did their torture test using their PLA profile and found that if I use a temp of 215 I get a lot of stringing but when I run it at their profile temp of 230 virtually no stringing.
This seems to go against the logic of reducing temp to help reduce stringing.
I'm new to Bowden so maybe it is stuff I do not know yet.

Curious on any thoughts on tis or in general on the printer.

That's consistent with my results printing PLA temperature towers, and I found it odd since most online communities would tell you stringing happens less at the lower end of the transition temps.

My conclusion on this is it is their hardened nozzle. These are a whole different game when it comes to lower temps. In my opinion thay are not great for PLA either.
You generally need 10-15 degrees more for the nozzle and they are not great at maintaining a steady temp.

I have switched to E3D all brass for PLA and it is working nicely.

I wish it was connectable over serial so I could see the temperature plot. Kossel at home has a very sinusoidal plot (rebuilding that hotend anyway, need to do a new M303), Makerbot 2X Replicator at the Uni is much more stable by comparison, and IDK where the F410 sits, but I'd never got any silky smooth prints off it or anything yet.

[wirlybird]

That's consistent with my results printing PLA temperature towers, and I found it odd since most online communities would tell you stringing happens less at the lower end of the transition temps.

My conclusion on this is it is their hardened nozzle. These are a whole different game when it comes to lower temps. In my opinion thay are not great for PLA either.
You generally need 10-15 degrees more for the nozzle and they are not great at maintaining a steady temp.

I have switched to E3D all brass for PLA and it is working nicely.

I wish it was connectable over serial so I could see the temperature plot. Kossel at home has a very sinusoidal plot (rebuilding that hotend anyway, need to do a new M303), Makerbot 2X Replicator at the Uni is much more stable by comparison, and IDK where the F410 sits, but I'd never got any silky smooth prints off it or anything yet.

Use the web interface for the F410. It has tons of info and statuses. Really quite useful I have found.
I find mine to be quite stable on temps.

I switched to all brass E3D nozzles for my normal printing (PLA) and they work great.

[Overheal]

My conclusion on this is it is their hardened nozzle. These are a whole different game when it comes to lower temps. In my opinion thay are not great for PLA either.
You generally need 10-15 degrees more for the nozzle and they are not great at maintaining a steady temp.

I have switched to E3D all brass for PLA and it is working nicely.

I wish it was connectable over serial so I could see the temperature plot. Kossel at home has a very sinusoidal plot (rebuilding that hotend anyway, need to do a new M303), Makerbot 2X Replicator at the Uni is much more stable by comparison, and IDK where the F410 sits, but I'd never got any silky smooth prints off it or anything yet.

Use the web interface for the F410. It has tons of info and statuses. Really quite useful I have found.
I find mine to be quite stable on temps.

I switched to all brass E3D nozzles for my normal printing (PLA) and they work great.

I am at the bottom of the totem pole on IT's priorities, and jacking the printer into the company network isn't something I'm authorized to do on my own

(Hmm, can I bridge it to my laptop with a Pi or something?)

[wirlybird]

You probably could. I changed the script for mine to set a static IP for it. I think if you know the IP, which you can get from the control panel, then plug into it you may be able to enter it into your browser and get into the interface.
Worst case is you might need a cross over cable to go direct, or a small switch to go between the printer and your laptop or look into one of the wifi devices they recommend to make the printer wifi capable.

As far as the network just plug in and let the network assign an IP then go to the console and see what it is then you should be in.