STL Files for Temperature Bracketing

[zemlin]

When figuring out a new filament or process I often print out a bunch of little test parts, each one printed at a different temperature so I can see which one has the best appearance, layer strength, or whatever it is I'm looking for at the time. The problem is that once the parts are off the plate I lose track of which part was at which temperature.

Tonight I fixed that issue.

I added a couple of features to my calibration cube model, and I exported 25 different STL files with different temperatures on them. The little rod is for checking strength. Break that sucker off when the print is done. You also get some travel moves between the post and the cube, so stringing/zits may manifest there. The attached ZIP file contains all 25 of the STL files with temps from 190 to 310.

I ran my first batch of these parts tonight - I put 9 of them on the build. I sliced with S3D and set each one to a different process and printed them sequentially so the temperatures would increase with each part. Worked great.

[gwhite]

Zemlin: Very slick (as usual)!

Do you use an particular infill and/or wall thickness?

I've been trying to come up with calibration/tuning parts for different slicer settings, and these will get added to my collection.

For example, while printing single wall calibration cubes to set my extrusion multiplier, I've found that if the retraction & extra restart distance (ERD) are off, the first wall will be too thick or thin.

That gets in the ball park, but to get them really dialed in, printing a thick cylinder seems to be very sensitive to retraction & ERD. If the settings are off, you get ridges and/or zits. I haven't figured out a quick way to home in on the best combination of the two parameters.

[zemlin]

Thanks.

Do you use an particular infill and/or wall thickness?

I just made these yesterday so I've only used them once. I used 2 perimeters and 25% hex infill.

[airscapes]

Zemlin: Very slick (as usual)!

Do you use an particular infill and/or wall thickness?

I've been trying to come up with calibration/tuning parts for different slicer settings, and these will get added to my collection.

For example, while printing single wall calibration cubes to set my extrusion multiplier, I've found that if the retraction & extra restart distance (ERD) are off, the first wall will be too thick or thin.

That gets in the ball park, but to get them really dialed in, printing a thick cylinder seems to be very sensitive to retraction & ERD. If the settings are off, you get ridges and/or zits. I haven't figured out a quick way to home in on the best combination of the two parameters.

Zemlin, I have switched methods of EW and starting height calibration. I have created 2 walled cubes and a 2 layer full coverage square. The 2 wall cube is for Z offset calibration and can be used for EW but the solid 2 layer square will give you the ability to make sure there are no gaps between threads. I found using the single wall for EW would end up being .2 under extruded I.E. .91 when it should be .93. I also will always measure the filament and enter that number in the other tab.. I have never had much luck messing with ERD what range do you typically find useful when using PETG or ABS? My guess on this setting is that it is more useful wit large nozzle diameters and or when printing very hot allowing more dip during movement..
What extrusion width do you use, I can post the 2 walled and flat modes. I like my walls to match the EW. Also when actually calibrating I make sure perimeter and infill over lap is set to 10-15% as it will mess with your wall thickness.

[zemlin]

The flat top on this cube works well for checking for a good extrusion multiplier. For extrusion width I start at 120% nozzle diameter and will tweak it up or down if there are gaps in thinner areas.