Dremel 3D45 Z Offset Change on the Fly

[phinsil6]

Hello,

I recently got a Dremel 3D45 and after some prints with the stock filament I've moved on to other brands (Hatchbox ABS/PLA, Mika3D PLA, Tianse PLA) and I use S3D to slice everything because of course, its my favorite.

I have printed lots of stuff and used about half of each of the two dremel reels and at least half of both a hatchbox white PLA and hatchbox black PLA. I printed all of that stuff with 0 Z offset.

Since then I have printed with Hatchbox Black ABS, Tianse Silver Metal PLA, and Mika3D Silk Copper PLA and they all are requiring insane amounts of Z offset (0.4, 0.3, and 0.6mm) respectively. I don't understand what the heck is going on. It is incredibly time consuming because you slice a file, load it up, go through calibration, wait for heating up, and then find out in about 4 seconds that extruder is clicking and the z offset is wack. For small stuff it's a nuisance but for multiple part overnight prints it's a real problem, especially when a z offset that has worked for other parts with the same offset now doesn't work for a big multipart print. I'm going crazy here.

The problem (besides this odd variable z offset thing) is that I can't seem to find a way to just bump the z axis down a nudge (0.1mm) to get the extruder flowing. I've done this before when printing over USB to other printers and is very helpful.

So I guess I have two questions:
Why would I have variable z offset settings for within filament prints and other new filaments?
Can I change the z axis on the fly midprint?

And yes:
I go through the bed levelling process all the time
I printed a 0.05mm layer height benchy with the white hatchbox pla with no z offset (although i think it might not have actually extruded a layer or two or three...)

Thank you so much for all your help!

[camco]

Hi,

I am having this same issue with my 3D45. I have racked my brain for hours and have not come up with a solutions. Exactly what you explained I am also dealing with.

I am wondering if you have come up with a soltuion.

Thanks

[phinsil6]

actually just a few days ago i did. it seems that it was a problem with the leveling arm. it has a vertical and horizontal angular setting set in the settings menu. it seems that for some reason over time this drifts. the numbers don't change but the actual "vertical" and "stow" positions drift from where they should be in real life.

in my case the "vertical" position drifted so far from vertical that the bed slammed into the switch without actually activating the switch so it broke the switch off from the arm. dremel warehouse is closed (COVID) so even though its under warranty i wouldnt be getting the replacement until sometime in June. luckily i was able to solder it back on...love having to solder on a ~$2k printer...sigh...thought i was past those days...

anyway, long story short, check the leveling arm calibration occasionally and make sure that the "vertical" position is indeed vertical in real life. i have had to change mine 3 times or so in the last two weeks, but just by eyeballing it vertical i get a nice consistent -0.1mm nozzle gap hard coded into the printer.

every few prints just pay attention when it goes through its auto level function and see if it still looks nice and plumb vertical to you.

hopefully this helps