Need some help here because I'm up against a wall on this and I posted this on FB
I have a Creality CR-X Dual color printer and I have been using S3D for over a year now on this printer.
Last month I upgraded my hotend to a E3D V6
Soldered all connections
Used he E3D heater and thermister
Stared printing again with no issues for over a month
Just this week I have had issues with my printer getting a "jam" and stops printing.
I re-sliced the model that was made in MasterCam several times with the same result....."jam" at around 3 to 4mm in height.
So I went and sliced the model in a free software I have and the print completed with no issues
So I went back to S3D, deleted the profile that I have used for over a year and made a new one, re-sliced it, printed just fine
A few days later I'm getting the same issue......S3D will not let my printer complete a print??
I have version 4.1.2 for S3D
My computer is new since last November:
HP Envy w/ Windows 10 Touch Screen
Intel Core I 7
12G/64bit
X 64 Processor
If this happens again I'm going to use my old PC and slice it and see what happens but if ANYONE can shed some light on this I would be grateful
Thank
Re: "Jam" Issues
What material are you printing?
Jams are typically caused by two main problems:
Heat creep up the pipe with a weak heatsink fan.
Excessive retracts and/or retracting too far.
When printing PLA I added a second 30mm fan to my Cyclops head, one didn't cut it.
Retracting too far will eventually allow melty plastic up into the cool section and you have a disassembly party to fix it.
When printing silk PLA, I have to minimize the frequency of retracts because eventually the d$%#! filament will chill and form "dumbbell" shape preventing forward or backward motion. This jam fixes itself though without a rebuild thankfully.
We could give better advice if you said what print head, filament, temperature and type of model you are printing.
DLC
Jams are typically caused by two main problems:
Heat creep up the pipe with a weak heatsink fan.
Excessive retracts and/or retracting too far.
When printing PLA I added a second 30mm fan to my Cyclops head, one didn't cut it.
Retracting too far will eventually allow melty plastic up into the cool section and you have a disassembly party to fix it.
When printing silk PLA, I have to minimize the frequency of retracts because eventually the d$%#! filament will chill and form "dumbbell" shape preventing forward or backward motion. This jam fixes itself though without a rebuild thankfully.
We could give better advice if you said what print head, filament, temperature and type of model you are printing.
DLC
D. Clark
Robotics and sensors engineer
And lots of other stuff for fun.
Robotics and sensors engineer
And lots of other stuff for fun.
