Anyone Using S3D On A QIDI X-Max3?

[wirlybird]

Anyone tried S3D with the X-Max3? Going to try it but wondered if anyone ahs already been there!

[Beefi]

Hi wirlybird,

yes, I tried it. It is ok, but only ok...the solution with Qidi Slicer (Prusa Slicer) is much better.
I loved to use Simplify3D with my Qidi X-Pro (-> Pro)...because of the abilities with multiextruder printing. Although the slicing technology of S3D is antiquated, it was a good solution that works.

Now with the Qidi X-Max 3, a high speed printer, Simplify3D is not a good choice. A high speed printer is able to print very fast, but due to the physics of plastic filament, you need variable settings for different situations.

In my experience, for this HIGH SPEED printer, you absolute need:
- Variable accelerations for various features (Perimeter, Infill, etc.).
- Variable speeds for various overhang angles (S3D would drive overhangs with full speed e.g. 500-600mm/s -> no chance for a good print).

Additionaly for this SINGLE EXTRUDER printer, it is absolute recommended:
- An adjustable support contact distance. In S3D you only can choose a multiple of a layer. So you cannot achieve the optimum, if you use the same material as support.
- Tree Supports! Tree-Supports is a revolutionary technology for supports with the same material (single extruder without MMU).

Additionaly S3D don't support some features of the printer, like partially bed leveling. If you slice with Qidi Slicer, then the printer only measures the area of the print/model. If you slice with S3D, the printer measures the entire bed and creates a matrix of the entire bed...it's annoying on each print.

It's my opinion. I wanted to write a post-processor to add some features...but without the abbility of tree supports, it's not worth the time.


In contrast, PrusaSlicer is not a good option for the Qidi X-Pro...the Wipe-Tower feature is not really supporting Multiextruders.
Here Simplify3D would be the better choice. Next to KISSlicer, Simplify3D has the best Wipe-Tower feature (in my opinion).

[wirlybird]

I figured most of this. I really don't print all that fast. So that isn't too big an issue.

I am having big issues with leveling with the printer. Runs auto leveling before the print and yet it starts the first layer on one side of the bed and will start good but by the time the first layer is at the other side of the bed the nozzle is almost hitting the bed. Massive wavy pattern typical of a nozzle being too close.

Haven't tried S3D on this printer yet.

[rootboy]

I do, sometimes...

The 3DLabPrint free J3 Cub files come as a S3D factory file set only so it made sense to use S3D. Creating the G-Code and then sending it to the printer works fine, with the caveat that the control panel doesn't filter out the modern day equivalent of the old ANSI.SYS escape codes (it appears to be an XML/JSON thing). Otherwise I use QidiSlicer (be sure to check your version and see if an update is available).

The short version of the story is that it works.

[rootboy]

I am having big issues with leveling with the printer. Runs auto leveling before the print and yet it starts the first layer on one side of the bed and will start good but by the time the first layer is at the other side of the bed the nozzle is almost hitting the bed. Massive wavy pattern typical of a nozzle being too close.

So first off, Qidi's support is the bomb. Use it: max3support@qd3dprinter.com Did I mention that they are outstanding?

And there have been multiple "enhancements" along the way that Qidi made available to me for free. I would look into that if I were you. I probably received $300 worth of "upgrades" (which, yes, should have been there in the first place. But you won't get anything from most of the other 3D printer companies).

Finally, there are a couple of gotchas to the bed leveling that you really ought to be made aware of:

1) Doing an automatic bed level and not pressing the "Completed" button on the touchscreen will toss out all of your bed leveling data. And while you have to initiate the process from the touchscreen, you can "complete" it from your PC - but don't. Press the button and your points will get saved. And it's worse than if you didn't do it at all since your Z offset will get tossed too. If you are like me, you will find your printer printing about 2mm above the bed...

2) A power outage will delete any Z-offset adjustments made to the printer. My power went out the other night while I was warming the bed up. Thinking nothing of it, I turned the bed heater back on and proceeded with my print. Far longer than I wish that I had checked in on things, I finally took a look to see how things were coming along. Yeah, not so good. After cleaning the darn thing out, and replacing the silicone sock, I took a look at my Z-offset and it was low by .1mm. Bringing it up by .1mm fixed it.

[Beefi]

Hi wirlybird,

I did a few more tests with S3D and the Qidi X-Max 3. The results are nice...so nice, that I decided (contrary to my statement before) to write a post-processor for the the dynamic acceleration control with Simplify3D.

I think, in a few days it's ready to share.
Do you have the Qidi X-Max 3?

[wirlybird]

Hi wirlybird,

I did a few more tests with S3D and the Qidi X-Max 3. The results are nice...so nice, that I decided (contrary to my statement before) to write a post-processor for the the dynamic acceleration control with Simplify3D.

I think, in a few days it's ready to share.
Do you have the Qidi X-Max 3?

Yes I do. Been using the QIDISlicer and Orca with good results but us S3D on most of my printers. Have not had a chance to try it on the Max3 yet.