Hi
I just tried the new alpha profile.
Dreamer not print, it seem a problem with the load filament motor, now works in the correct way, but extrude only a bit of filament and does not adhere well, so my filament ended in the nozzle...
My tests:
Dreamer firmware 1.6
ABS FF original filament
Right extruder, Hi Quality settings
Blue tape
Simplify3D v0.123 alpha profile: 105º bed, 220º ABS
Make robot thing
Re: FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Profile
Update:
With Low Quality settings and using only kapton tape (no blue tape), print is fine, working!
The speed is really high, amazing...
In few minutes a photo with the print results, and a comparation between finish quality between FlashPrint and Simplify3D on FF Dreamer...
With Low Quality settings and using only kapton tape (no blue tape), print is fine, working!
The speed is really high, amazing...
In few minutes a photo with the print results, and a comparation between finish quality between FlashPrint and Simplify3D on FF Dreamer...
Re: FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Profile
pabtec with finer layer height resolutions, I always find it helpful to increase the percentage of my first layer height (should be under layer tab) also possibly bumping up the extrusion multiplier about +.02 or so. YMMV
Re: FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Profile
Hi
Print successfully!
I printed same Make robot with both softwares.
Flashprint made a lot of errors, and all parts are impossible to move by hand, in fact I broke some parts trying it.
Simplify made a great job, with less quality settings that Fprint, the finish is really good, and the robot move the most of its parts.
Great!
Flashprint: big print with a lot of errors
In the upper, Flashprint with medium quality
In the lower Simplify3D with Low quality setting
Note the differences... far far away imho
Print successfully!
I printed same Make robot with both softwares.
Flashprint made a lot of errors, and all parts are impossible to move by hand, in fact I broke some parts trying it.
Simplify made a great job, with less quality settings that Fprint, the finish is really good, and the robot move the most of its parts.
Great!
Flashprint: big print with a lot of errors
In the lower Simplify3D with Low quality setting
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BaronWilliams
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:30 pm
Re: FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Profile
Pabtec, I'm glad you got it working! Nice photo 
When printing on HIGH with ABS did you hear any clicking noises from the extruder?
I didn't test HIGH quality, I only tested MEDIUM quality. I will try testing HIGH quality later today. I did have some minor printing problems at MEDIUM using 220 C for FlashForge White ABS. I changed it to 230 C and turned off the fan and then it worked much better. I haven't updated the profile with those new settings yet. I will do more testing. I will test HIGH and LOW, and also test to be sure PLA is working properly and make any required changes. Then I will upload an update for the profile and start working on LEFT and DUAL profiles.
When printing on HIGH with ABS did you hear any clicking noises from the extruder?
I didn't test HIGH quality, I only tested MEDIUM quality. I will try testing HIGH quality later today. I did have some minor printing problems at MEDIUM using 220 C for FlashForge White ABS. I changed it to 230 C and turned off the fan and then it worked much better. I haven't updated the profile with those new settings yet. I will do more testing. I will test HIGH and LOW, and also test to be sure PLA is working properly and make any required changes. Then I will upload an update for the profile and start working on LEFT and DUAL profiles.
Re: FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Profile
My Dreamer printer comes with problems in right extruder, in fact I couldnt make any print since I received it!
A lot of crack-crack-crack was earing, so I suposed a nozzle problem, perhaps a obstruction...
http://youtu.be/Kt4JFyXS5kM
This was yhe cause of my claim for a left extruder in your profile :0)
I purchased some new nozzles, difficult to find because is MK9, so yesterday I unmounted the nozzle and cleaned it.
The Dreamer Nozzles comes with a teflon tube instead a metalic guide saw in the the creator, so I cleaned the inside of the nozzle and the teflon guide and mounted it again, now works like a charm!
I continue having problems to glue the filament in the first moments of the print.
I tested blue tape and kapton, but sometimes the print not start properly...
So I will return to use the Nelly laque over kapton, like in Creator, probably the best way to glue prints...
I dont know if will be better to try to use a glass over the aluminium bed...
A lot of crack-crack-crack was earing, so I suposed a nozzle problem, perhaps a obstruction...
http://youtu.be/Kt4JFyXS5kM
This was yhe cause of my claim for a left extruder in your profile :0)
I purchased some new nozzles, difficult to find because is MK9, so yesterday I unmounted the nozzle and cleaned it.
The Dreamer Nozzles comes with a teflon tube instead a metalic guide saw in the the creator, so I cleaned the inside of the nozzle and the teflon guide and mounted it again, now works like a charm!
I continue having problems to glue the filament in the first moments of the print.
I tested blue tape and kapton, but sometimes the print not start properly...
So I will return to use the Nelly laque over kapton, like in Creator, probably the best way to glue prints...
I dont know if will be better to try to use a glass over the aluminium bed...
Re: FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Profile
Thanks so much for this wonderful aid. I'm currently printing out my first example. It does seem that this runs the Dreamer much faster than the FlashPrint system does. Do I need to modify any settings, or is this intended?
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BaronWilliams
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:30 pm
Re: FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Profile
Hi BruceG,
I am using it as is at the speed in the profile I uploaded. I've printed many prints so far with it using the defaults. It is set to print ABS faster than the FlashPrint software defaults to, but it seems to work good.
I tested out a DUAL EXTRUSION version of this profile and it did not work right, causing some strange head movements and unusual filament drainage. I was working on this, trying to figure out the problem, looking at G-code, and then decided to try using DUAL EXTRUSION on FlashPrint to see how it created the G-code.
So I tried printing using DUAL EXTRUSION using 100% FlashPrint (using it's Slic3r setting) to see if FlashPrint had the same problems with dual extrusion. It did not. But about 30% through my print, my printer's X axis belt broke off. I disassembled the print head to take a look at the carriage and saw that the X axis belt clip on the carriage (the piece that holds the belt to the carriage) had slightly melted from overheating, and so the belt came off. The heater cartridge wires were touching that area of the carriage and probably got too hot and melted it. Because the clamp melted, I cannot reattach the X axis belt. Once I get this fixed, I'll make sure to insulate the carriage from the heater wires.
So because of this problem I cannot do any more printing for a while until I get a new carriage and belt clip to replace the melted ones.
Take a look at the problem that happened during my first DUAL EXTRUSION test using FlashPrint. Look out for this problem if doing dual extrusion with ABS and ABS at 230 C for both heads. If your heater wires are touching the carriage like mine were, this could happen to your Dreamer too.
In this picture you can see a clear indent near the middle of the front of the carriage's belt area. This is where my heater cartridge wires were touching my carriage and so they were transferring heat to the carriage. When this problem happened I was dual extruding ABS and I had my printer enclosed with the lid on, and no fan running, and it was a very hot summer day. The room temperature was about 100 F. This combination of the wires touching the carriage, it being a very hot day, no fan running, and the lid on probably all contributed to the melted carriage.
UPDATE: FlashForge is sending me replacement parts. They are an excellent company when it comes to customer support. Their engineers are working to solve this problem. I'm sure they'll find a good solution to it.
A quick solution is to simply move the wires away if they are too close, and pull them up. The heater wires are pretty stiff and should not easily move back down towards the carriage. Another quick solution is to cover the X-axis belt area with a small bit of ceramic tape to insulate it from the heater wires.
UPDATE 2: My FlashForge Dreamer free replacement parts arrived a few days ago and I started doing more tests again. I found out the problem with the dual extrusion tests I did. There's a Simplify3D setting called Only Retract When Crossing Open Spaces which is incompatible with dual extrusion which must be UNCHECKED and I had is checked. I will be publishing my dual extrusion profile soon.
I am using it as is at the speed in the profile I uploaded. I've printed many prints so far with it using the defaults. It is set to print ABS faster than the FlashPrint software defaults to, but it seems to work good.
I tested out a DUAL EXTRUSION version of this profile and it did not work right, causing some strange head movements and unusual filament drainage. I was working on this, trying to figure out the problem, looking at G-code, and then decided to try using DUAL EXTRUSION on FlashPrint to see how it created the G-code.
So I tried printing using DUAL EXTRUSION using 100% FlashPrint (using it's Slic3r setting) to see if FlashPrint had the same problems with dual extrusion. It did not. But about 30% through my print, my printer's X axis belt broke off. I disassembled the print head to take a look at the carriage and saw that the X axis belt clip on the carriage (the piece that holds the belt to the carriage) had slightly melted from overheating, and so the belt came off. The heater cartridge wires were touching that area of the carriage and probably got too hot and melted it. Because the clamp melted, I cannot reattach the X axis belt. Once I get this fixed, I'll make sure to insulate the carriage from the heater wires.
So because of this problem I cannot do any more printing for a while until I get a new carriage and belt clip to replace the melted ones.
Take a look at the problem that happened during my first DUAL EXTRUSION test using FlashPrint. Look out for this problem if doing dual extrusion with ABS and ABS at 230 C for both heads. If your heater wires are touching the carriage like mine were, this could happen to your Dreamer too.
A quick solution is to simply move the wires away if they are too close, and pull them up. The heater wires are pretty stiff and should not easily move back down towards the carriage. Another quick solution is to cover the X-axis belt area with a small bit of ceramic tape to insulate it from the heater wires.
UPDATE 2: My FlashForge Dreamer free replacement parts arrived a few days ago and I started doing more tests again. I found out the problem with the dual extrusion tests I did. There's a Simplify3D setting called Only Retract When Crossing Open Spaces which is incompatible with dual extrusion which must be UNCHECKED and I had is checked. I will be publishing my dual extrusion profile soon.
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BaronWilliams
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:30 pm
Re: FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Process Profile
I have uploaded my new FlashForge Dreamer Dual Extruder Simplify3D Profile v0.125 alpha to the first message of this thread. I have tested it extensively. Let me know if you have any problems with it.
Note that I made the light colors change to give you visual feedback of what print process is currently happening.
* YELLOW means the start G-code has started.
* RED means the system is heating up.
* GREEN means the temperature has stabilized.
* WHITE means a layer is now printing.
* CYAN means a layer change is happening.
* MULTI-COLOR flashing means the print is done.
Please use this process profile with my FlashForge Dreamer Firmware Profile found here if you want the Simplify3D cooling controls to work for the FlashForge Dreamer: FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Firmware Profile
Note that I made the light colors change to give you visual feedback of what print process is currently happening.
* YELLOW means the start G-code has started.
* RED means the system is heating up.
* GREEN means the temperature has stabilized.
* WHITE means a layer is now printing.
* CYAN means a layer change is happening.
* MULTI-COLOR flashing means the print is done.
Please use this process profile with my FlashForge Dreamer Firmware Profile found here if you want the Simplify3D cooling controls to work for the FlashForge Dreamer: FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Firmware Profile
Re: FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Process Profile
Hi there.
I purchased a Dreamer a week ago and am looking for ways to optimize it's performance - I'm relatively new to 3D printing but I'm already finding limitations in the flashprint software, and what you guys are doing with Simplify3D looks like some amazing work. I will probably take the plunge and buy the software.
I was wondering BaronWilliams, what steps have you taken to combat curling when printing with ABS on the Dreamer? What sort of things have you done to the settings in your dual extrusion profile? I couldn't get good results with the Kapton tape, and I'm trying the blue tape now with better results but it still curls at the edges. At this point I am just using the flashprint software with default settings, and my plate is absolutely dead level (it's easy on this machine because it is so well made and solid). I've seen people using hairspray, glass plates, various tapes, even making weird slurries out of acetone and ABS...
What do you do with your build plate on that machine?
I purchased a Dreamer a week ago and am looking for ways to optimize it's performance - I'm relatively new to 3D printing but I'm already finding limitations in the flashprint software, and what you guys are doing with Simplify3D looks like some amazing work. I will probably take the plunge and buy the software.
I was wondering BaronWilliams, what steps have you taken to combat curling when printing with ABS on the Dreamer? What sort of things have you done to the settings in your dual extrusion profile? I couldn't get good results with the Kapton tape, and I'm trying the blue tape now with better results but it still curls at the edges. At this point I am just using the flashprint software with default settings, and my plate is absolutely dead level (it's easy on this machine because it is so well made and solid). I've seen people using hairspray, glass plates, various tapes, even making weird slurries out of acetone and ABS...
What do you do with your build plate on that machine?
