Cheers,
Rusty (lousy photographer)
- medium resolution default.jpg (156.34 KiB) Viewed 9494 times
- high resolution default.jpg (138.04 KiB) Viewed 9494 times
Re: Coast at end, what does it actually do ?
OK, here is my attempt with a new factory built M2, and the complimentary purple PLA. The left is default medium (0.25mm) resolution, and right is default high (0.15mm). I think the only thing I've changed is to 4 outer layers, instead of 3, and some of the gcode script.
Cheers,
Rusty (lousy photographer)
Cheers,
Rusty (lousy photographer)
Re: Coast at end, what does it actually do ?
It seems that you are also getting pretty much the same result.
I am not glad that it came out this way but I feel better cause it's not only me.
Did you use default PLA temperature (190) ?
I am not glad that it came out this way but I feel better cause it's not only me.
Did you use default PLA temperature (190) ?
Re: Coast at end, what does it actually do ?
Yes, it's still at the default of 190 degrees. This is all pretty new to me, so I haven't done too much experimenting yet.
Rusty
Rusty
Re: Coast at end, what does it actually do ?
So today I made a rather frustrating discovery which has to do with my hot end.
As I mentioned before I had the nozzle temp measured with a laser temp gun. However, today the temps measured were much lower than what expected. So, it seems that the cheap temp gun can not be trusted anymore.
Now, the interesting part. I disassembled the M2 head so that I could feed the filament with my hand and see how it reacts when I "manually retract" in various temperatures as reported in the Creator. So, I start at 175. I push about 20-30 cm of filament in the hot end and a nice thin line of PLA came out. I "retract" (pulled back the filament by few mm) and nothing happens. The nozzle kept feeding PLA but at a much lower rate. I tried that about 20 times. There was not even once that the PLA would stop coming out the extruder which is what it should at least do or in the best case it should be sucked in by 0.5 to 1mm when retracted.
Interesting I think...
So, I bring the temp down to 165 and repeat the experiment. Still the same result but a slightly improved in a way that less PLA was oozing out of the nozzle.
So, the same again at 155 and this is the point things started getting much much better. I had to force the filament with greater pressure than before (not much though) but when I retracted nothing came out of the nozzle for a few seconds. I also measured the extruded filament thickness and it was at 40mm which is within spec.
So, as Simplify3d mentioned before this might be a probe problem. It would be very interesting though if I could print at that temp and see how it goes but the software/firmware prevents me from doing that. Is there any way to override this ?
(edit: in order to override temperature so that you can extrude at any temp issue a M302 command. Be careful though cause you can easily damage the extruder !!!!!)
As I mentioned before I had the nozzle temp measured with a laser temp gun. However, today the temps measured were much lower than what expected. So, it seems that the cheap temp gun can not be trusted anymore.
Now, the interesting part. I disassembled the M2 head so that I could feed the filament with my hand and see how it reacts when I "manually retract" in various temperatures as reported in the Creator. So, I start at 175. I push about 20-30 cm of filament in the hot end and a nice thin line of PLA came out. I "retract" (pulled back the filament by few mm) and nothing happens. The nozzle kept feeding PLA but at a much lower rate. I tried that about 20 times. There was not even once that the PLA would stop coming out the extruder which is what it should at least do or in the best case it should be sucked in by 0.5 to 1mm when retracted.
Interesting I think...
So, I bring the temp down to 165 and repeat the experiment. Still the same result but a slightly improved in a way that less PLA was oozing out of the nozzle.
So, the same again at 155 and this is the point things started getting much much better. I had to force the filament with greater pressure than before (not much though) but when I retracted nothing came out of the nozzle for a few seconds. I also measured the extruded filament thickness and it was at 40mm which is within spec.
So, as Simplify3d mentioned before this might be a probe problem. It would be very interesting though if I could print at that temp and see how it goes but the software/firmware prevents me from doing that. Is there any way to override this ?
(edit: in order to override temperature so that you can extrude at any temp issue a M302 command. Be careful though cause you can easily damage the extruder !!!!!)
Re: Coast at end, what does it actually do ?
It definately looks like you are printing to hot. Good job on testing the hot end.
When I was trying to print test pyramids I went through a couple of issues as well.
You might want to check out :
http://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=109
I think your on the right track.
When I was trying to print test pyramids I went through a couple of issues as well.
You might want to check out :
http://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=109
I think your on the right track.
- PLA Pyramid .250 layer 180°
- P_25-2.JPG (146.53 KiB) Viewed 9468 times
Re: Coast at end, what does it actually do ?
FWIW, I just printed this on "high" resolution, using 190, 185, 180, and 175 temps. Overall, the 185 was probably the best, though it's not that much better than the 190 default. 180 was at least as good, but it had a couple significant issues in it. I'll stay with 185 for a while to see how that works.
Rusty
Rusty
Re: Coast at end, what does it actually do ?
How is the humidity in your area? How do your store your PLA? I had similar problems mostly caused from to much moisture in my PLA and Nylon. The water turns to gas in the nozzle and causes uncontrollable extrusion. I had mine stored in ziplocks with 3-4 desiccant packs in each bag so I thought it was dry. I only had them out of the original packaging for a week before storing them in the ziplocks.glx51mm wrote:So today I made a rather frustrating discovery which has to do with my hot end.
As I mentioned before I had the nozzle temp measured with a laser temp gun. However, today the temps measured were much lower than what expected. So, it seems that the cheap temp gun can not be trusted anymore.
Now, the interesting part. I disassembled the M2 head so that I could feed the filament with my hand and see how it reacts when I "manually retract" in various temperatures as reported in the Creator. So, I start at 175. I push about 20-30 cm of filament in the hot end and a nice thin line of PLA came out. I "retract" (pulled back the filament by few mm) and nothing happens. The nozzle kept feeding PLA but at a much lower rate. I tried that about 20 times. There was not even once that the PLA would stop coming out the extruder which is what it should at least do or in the best case it should be sucked in by 0.5 to 1mm when retracted.
Interesting I think...
So, I bring the temp down to 165 and repeat the experiment. Still the same result but a slightly improved in a way that less PLA was oozing out of the nozzle.
So, the same again at 155 and this is the point things started getting much much better. I had to force the filament with greater pressure than before (not much though) but when I retracted nothing came out of the nozzle for a few seconds. I also measured the extruded filament thickness and it was at 40mm which is within spec.
So, as Simplify3d mentioned before this might be a probe problem. It would be very interesting though if I could print at that temp and see how it goes but the software/firmware prevents me from doing that. Is there any way to override this ?
(edit: in order to override temperature so that you can extrude at any temp issue a M302 command. Be careful though cause you can easily damage the extruder !!!!!)
To weigh in on the coast function, I use it for almost every print. I do vary how much I use depending on the size of the prints and how many short infills there are. Between coast and retract distance/speed I have been able to pretty much eliminate any blobs or strings on all of my prints. For PLA I usually use .2-.8mm of coast. and 1.8-2.4mm of reatract at 4000mm/min.
Re: Coast at end, what does it actually do ?
Hello guys,
First of all many thanks to everyone for your help. It seems that the issue was the temperature after all. The probe does not show the correct temperature. There is actually a shift of about 20-25 degrees (actual temp is higher than the one indicated) and this is why I was experiencing so much oozing.
Until I get a replacement probe I can issue a M302 command and print with no problems.
I still need to do some tweaking but the biggest problem has been solved for now and I can enjoy some really awesome prints
After spending almost two weeks with my M2 and about one week with Creator of everyday printing I can safely say that this combination is probably the best for the price range.
The Creator really complements the M2 and provides a multitude of settings so that you can get the most out of your printer.
Well done guys and again thank you everyone.
First of all many thanks to everyone for your help. It seems that the issue was the temperature after all. The probe does not show the correct temperature. There is actually a shift of about 20-25 degrees (actual temp is higher than the one indicated) and this is why I was experiencing so much oozing.
Until I get a replacement probe I can issue a M302 command and print with no problems.
I still need to do some tweaking but the biggest problem has been solved for now and I can enjoy some really awesome prints
After spending almost two weeks with my M2 and about one week with Creator of everyday printing I can safely say that this combination is probably the best for the price range.
The Creator really complements the M2 and provides a multitude of settings so that you can get the most out of your printer.
Well done guys and again thank you everyone.
