diptwa wrote:Hi there.
I purchased a Dreamer a week ago and am looking for ways to optimize it's performance - I'm relatively new to 3D printing but I'm already finding limitations in the flashprint software, and what you guys are doing with Simplify3D looks like some amazing work. I will probably take the plunge and buy the software.
I was wondering BaronWilliams, what steps have you taken to combat curling when printing with ABS on the Dreamer? What sort of things have you done to the settings in your dual extrusion profile? I couldn't get good results with the Kapton tape, and I'm trying the blue tape now with better results but it still curls at the edges. At this point I am just using the flashprint software with default settings, and my plate is absolutely dead level (it's easy on this machine because it is so well made and solid). I've seen people using hairspray, glass plates, various tapes, even making weird slurries out of acetone and ABS...
What do you do with your build plate on that machine?
Sorry for the late reply. I have not had much time to visit forums lately.
When I print using ABS, I now use Kapton almost exclusively. The key to getting prints to stick to Kapton, I've found, is to make sure the surface is extremely clean each time I print. I wipe the Kapton surface clean with acetone followed by isopropyl alcohol.
The build plate needs to be about 110 C for most of the ABS I use. At 100 C, most of my ABS doesn't stick well and curls or pops loose (especially if the object has sharp corners touching the build plate). I never use hairspray, glass, slurries, etc. I do sometimes use blue painter's tape, which works better for PLA when not heating the build plate. But I rarely print with PLA. The optimal build plate temperature is filament related. Some ABS filament does fine at 100 C, but most of my ABS needs 110 C.
I have found ABS curling to be an issue if printing on a build plate that's not quite hot enough. If curling is a major issue on Kapton, it's likely that the build plate is not hot enough. At 100 C, most of my large prints are likely to curl. At 105 C, the likelihood is much less. At 110 C, I rarely see this happen. At 110 C, curling can still sometimes happen, depending on the shape being printed. Very large shapes with long straight walls that touch the build plate which have right angle turns on them, such as a large cube, are the most difficult to print without edge curling. Even PLA, can show some edge curling on these kinds of shapes. I don't often print shapes of that nature.
Tricks like ABS slurry, Elmer's Glue Stick, etc., will not completely stop edge curling, despite claims to the contrary. A large cube printed with ABS, even on such a coated surface, is still likely to curl if the build plate is too cold, pulling up the glue or dried ABS slurry with it because the shrinking forces are very strong for that kind of shape.
If a shape is almost impossible to print without edge curling, and you've tried ABS slurry, Elmer's Glue Stick, etc., it's time to start printing the shape on a large thick raft. I know everyone hates rafts, but sometimes that's the only thing that works for certain objects. Have your object print above the curling point on the raft. For example, if curling happing up until 5 mm, then make your raft 8 mm thick and print on top of that. That should work.
