Simplify3D User Forum

Hello, newbie here ( purchased Simplify 3 d 3 days ago ).
I own a Monoprice MP select mini , it comes with the Cura slicer. It offers a choice of 8 print quality ( 8 different layer height ) . The highest print quality ( ultra fine ) has a layer height of 0.04375 mm. How do I create that profile in Simplify3D ? do I go to the Auto-configure for print quality then + then enter 0.04375in the Primary layer height value ? and all the other parameters will be computed based on the new layer height value ???
And could someone pleas explain what Auto-configure means ?
Regards.

Jacques

Pick a software and spend the time to learn it. You purchased S3D so forget about what cura does and learn what this does.
This is not plug and play it is a black hole sucking your time to try and test every setting to figure out how to get it right. Thinner layers don't always make for better print.. Start with the default profile for your printer and print something.. while it is printing watch the videos and read the docs.
I feel your pain, you want to hit the ground running printing perfect things now.. did that some weeks ago.. .. as they say "Gota Pay the Band if you want to Dance" and that means take the time to figure it out one parameter at time.
Keep going it will all come together

Docs and videos https://www.simplify3d.com/support/
Forum https://forum.simplify3d.com/
User created document http://www.breathflute.com/pdf/S3D_SettingsCG.pdf

Well said, airscapes! Turkey,

To answer the remaining question, Simplify3D has actually posted a video about adding quality and material auto-configures. And as far as new auto-configure(s) go, any that you make will not have other settings updated automatically. They will be presets that you create and tune to your liking.

For a deeper dive into what actually can be updated when you add a new "Auto-configure" option see my post here where I show you where to look to see what's a base profile setting and whats assigned to qualities or materials in the MakerGear Dual profile.

Thank you airscapes and DarthRevan for the help. The link to the video about adding quality and material auto-configures is exactly what I'm looking for. And while printing I'm reading the Tip of the Day Compilation: FFF Settings Window. I purchased my 3D printer to print engines and wagons shells for my small TT scale ( 1/120 ) model railroads so I want to print parts with the best resolution I can get . No benchy nor big intergalactic spacecraft printing for me.

Jacques

biasedturkey wrote: ↑Wed May 09, 2018 1:21 am Thank you airscapes and DarthRevan for the help. The link to the video about adding quality and material auto-configures is exactly what I'm looking for. And while printing I'm reading the Tip of the Day Compilation: FFF Settings Window. I purchased my 3D printer to print engines and wagons shells for my small TT scale ( 1/120 ) model railroads so I want to print parts with the best resolution I can get . No benchy nor big intergalactic spacecraft printing for me.

Jacques

I am printing D&D miniature for a coworker and I can tell you when printing small I have found thinner layers don't make for better or stronger prints. With layers down at .1 you get more issues with start and ending of extrudes as there is always a mark and thin areas are weaker. I just proved this again 10 minutes ago. I printed an orc with his ax separate from the model and the area where the handle goes through his hand needed to be drilled out slightly. I had printed one with a layer thickness of .14 as that divides into the models height equally. That one drilled fine and had good detail when examined with a jewelers loop. I had printed a second with a layer height of .1, this one had a lot of bugger around the face and other detailed areas and when I drilled the hand it broke. Also the handle of the ax was messed (curled) at the end on the .1

With very thin layers on tiny part I believe there are several thing at work against you.. one, too many passes over the same spot.. extra cooling can help. and the plastic cooks in the extrude as it is not used fast enough and then oozes, blobs and strings more. So don't fixate on layer height until you have master all the rest of the things the will go wrong in the configuration of the software when printing a model. What worked for model A and roll of plastic B may not work with Model C or roll of plastic D.
Good luck with your new hobby it will take time but you will get there, lord knows I got a long road still head to get this down pat.

A common workaround for the part overheating issue is to print multiple copies of the same part. This introduces more challenges with moving between islands but it does significantly increase the amount of cooling each area gets.