GeeeTech A10T and ABS

[mpd352]

I’m trying to print ABS with my A10T. I need something a little more durable than PLA.

I’ve read and re-read the tips and tricks for printing ABS, and am hitting a wall.

I’ve set the file to print with a raft, cooling fans off, print temp at 222C and bed temp at 100C to start, then dropping to 85C.

The initial raft layer goes down fine, then nothing but spaghetti. I’m at a loss. A picture and all my settings are in this pdf:

ABS.pdf

(1.08 MiB) Downloaded 168 times

I'm hoping someone that is smarter than me can look at this and make suggestions.

The STL and G-Code file are included.

Jeep Clip.stl

(58.97 KiB) Downloaded 147 times

ABS.pdf

(1.08 MiB) Downloaded 168 times

Thanks,

MPD352

[airscapes]

You need a heated enclosure to print ABS without difficulty, it needs to be 50C, the bed I normally heat to 110C and the hot end 235-240.
No raft needed if your starting Z offset is set correctly.. meaning a 3mm tall model is exactly 3mm when printed. Your first layer should be 100% just like every other layer. First layer speed should be 50% and max speed is model size specific.


The heated enclosure is the most important thing.

If you don't have one then PETG would a better choice, no heated enclosure needed. but not as ridged as ABS.
Good luck!

[mpd352]

Thanks for your reply. I do have an enclosure. I'll have to dig it out and try it.

Thanks!

[mpd352]

As a test, I let the job run to completion. But, unfortunately, what I found was an issue with the raft and only the raft.

The first layer of the raft laid down correctly. However, the second and subsequent layers of the raft are a mess. I suspect that the second and third layers of the raft are extruding too fast or too slow, I'm not sure which. However, once the job gets past the raft, it prints the job more or less correctly, except at the raft object interface.

If I can figure out how to print the raft correctly, the whole job will print correctly. The part is too small to stick to the plate without a raft.

I’m in the process of googling how to slow down all the raft layers, but while I’m doing that figured it wouldn’t hurt to post some pictures and a better description of what’s going on, with the hope that you guys can tell me where I go in simplify 3D settings to try and correct this issue.

I’m also going to conduct the test by printing a 40 mm x 40 mm x 2 mm box without a raft to see if it prints correctly. I’ll let you know how that works.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks

K

[airscapes]

I never use a raft. If the contact area is small I use a skirt of 5 or 6 perimeters .03mm from the object (additions tab) . This will help hold the object to the build plate but is easy to remove from the object when done.
I am actually removing an abs print from the printer when I am done with this post

[mpd352]

The simple 40mm x 40mm x 2mm rectangle printed OK. Some corner curling.

I'll try next with the brim airscapes recommended.

[mpd352]

The parts printed OK on my A10T. Only mistake was failing to change the extruder for the brim to the left side spool, which was black ABS. It was set to the right, which was red PLA. Never the less, they printed.

The new parts are on the bottom, and the broken original right hand piece is above. I think I can tweak some settings to get a better quality finish, but not going to as these parts are hidden. They hold down the folding rear cargo lid on my 2021 Jeep Wrangler. If they turn out not to be strong enough, I'll send the file to someone on-line that can print them in fiber reenforced nylon.