Nylon Bridge print settings

[zen]

I am trying to get away from the stringing on Taulman bridge nylon, and cant seem to completely eliminate the blobs on extruder moves across the part. What are you using as far as settings in your prints. using a Wanhao dual printer
Extruder Temp
HBP temp
Retraction
Coast

Funny thing is if I use Replicator to slice it the print doesn't jump around the part so I don't have to worry about any of these settings, but having problems getting nylon to stick to the build plate consistently with Rep G.

Thanks

[jimc]

have you dried the filament? nylons especially the bridge will need to be dried....ALOT! if its not perfectly dry then you will never get the stringing and blobbing under control. im not using the wanhao but my ext temp is 265, retraction 1.8mm, coast 1mm, wipe 5mm, print speed 2400, bed temp 80.

[zen]

I thought the point of bridge was that you didn't have to dry it. oh well. Into the toaster oven it goes
Thanks

[jimc]

Well taulman says it doesnt absorb water as much as his other nylons but i dont see it. I have 2 rolls of bridge here and they both bubble and steam like crazy.

[curious aardvark]

damn - got the bridge because the 618 is a nightmare for anything other than tiny prints.

And yes I did leave the 618 in the dehydrator for about 12 hours before printing. Didn't seem to make any difference. haven't tried the bridge yet. But yeah, bought because it was supposed to be a lot better.

[zen]

Well, I have tried everything I can think of and can't get it to work with simplify3d. retraction, coast , and wipe have all been taken to relatively extreme settings with little or no change.
If I run it through replicator G it doesn't string, but the print quality isn't as good. Does anybody have any info on the ooze setting? Good news is that drying the bridge didn't make a difference as far as the actual print, so why bother.

[dsegel]

Can't help with settings for Bridge as I haven't tried it yet (but I do have a roll coming next week), but the ooze setting in S3D 2.2.0 does nothing at all - in some tests where I could actually repeat the slicing behavior, there was no difference in the GCode no matter what I set it to. It also seems to reset to 100 no matter what value you enter.

[jimc]

zen, as long as if you jog the extrude and dont see any white steam, smoke or popping of any kind your good. dry nylon wont usually ooze too bad if it just sits there in the hot end. should be no different than what you would get with pla or abs. if its more then its not dry. needs to be baked in the oven at 140deg or so for about 4 hours. i have 2 rolls of bridge and 1 618. they are both loaded with moisture right out of the bag from taulman. all need baking. im looking at my process for nylon. i have 2 of them, one for an e3d hot end which has a short hot zone. those were the setting i gave you before. the other is for the stock makergear hot end and my retraction distance is about 4mm, coasting 2.8mm, wipe 5mm. ret speed is 3000mm/min. all those values change though depending on your hot end. yours may need more or less. if repg is not stringing then you have it doing something differently than you have in s3d. retraction controls stringing. your extruder only pushes and pulls filament so if repg is set to 3mm retract and s3d is the same then they are both doing the same thing in the same way. there is nothing that one is doing differently other than the speed of the retraction which could be different. you may want to check that out. also i would assume you are printing at the same temp in both?

[jlmartinjr]

I was going to try to put a board of MDF on my heated bed, i read some where that the Nylon618 stuck to it very well,
What setting to I need to change so that the printer knows that the bed is .445 higher than it was, I tried using the start printing height under the advanced tab but the extruder crashed into the bed on initialization.

[jimc]

no settings in s3d. you need to change that on your printer. the z stop needs to be adjusted for the new bed. if not every time it homes the bed will come up and it will be waiting for it to contact the z switch. the nozzle will always hit the bed now before the switch. you probably have some sort of adjustment bolt that contacts the switch.