Simplify3D User Forum

Hello,

I want to install a e3D cyclops on my leapfrog creatr dual to replace the dual head and get ride of all the issues of having 2 hot ends.
If it's work like i expect, i think to do the same on a flashforge creator pro .

where in Simplify 3D i can say that the 2 nozzles are now only 1 ?? ( like if the 2 nozzles are at the same place instead of 3.5cm distance )

Thanks for your help

The toolhead offsets are firmware coded on most machines, so some coding may be required to overcome that. Definitely seems doable though.

If you were using 2 processes, (one for each extruder) you could simply offest the G-Code by what the distance between the nozzles used to be on the T1 Process.
So say the nozzles were 3.5cm apart, on a tool change the firmware is going to try and move the head 3.5 cm to the right so that the left nozzle is positioned where the right nozzle previously was. So for this you would offset the T1 G-Code by -3.5cm so that it wont try to move at all.
Does this make sense?

Hello DarthRevan,

it's make sense yes ! very clever
I will hope there is a way to setup this one time for ever .
Not at each job .
Because the nozzle will be in the center position of the 2 current one that are 3.5 cm distant , i need to use -1.25 in X for process 1 and +1.25 in X for process 2 if i want to being at the correct head bed coordinate right ?

If everything works, this turn my leapfrog to a 3D builder one rignt ? but with the simplify 3D compatibility !

ghiom wrote:Hello DarthRevan,

it's make sense yes ! very clever
I will hope there is a way to setup this one time for ever .
Not at each job .

Exporting the FFF once you've set it up should save it for reuse.

ghiom wrote:Because the nozzle will be in the center position of the 2 current one that are 3.5 cm distant , i need to use -1.25 in X for process 1 and +1.25 in X for process 2 if i want to being at the correct head bed coordinate right ?

If it's truly in the center of where the previous two were, then yes.

ghiom wrote:If everything works, this turn my leapfrog to a 3D builder one rignt ? but with the simplify 3D compatibility !

You will have made a leapfrog with a cyclops extruder, my friend!

Yes a leapfrog with a Cyclops extruder ... a Cyclops leapfrog

the hot end is in his place. It's make the Head very light ! I will gain in quality .
But i'm not anymore in direct configuration, i will use bowden and need to find where to place the nema motors .

a question , the old double extruder is using :

2x hot end
2x Heat Cardridge
2x Thermistor

But the cyclops is made with :
1x Hot end
1x Heat cardridge
1x Thermistor

Can i just remove the 2th heat cardridge and thermistor ?

That's a new design now
I want to only use originale aluminium parts of the leapfrog. No custom PLA or ABS parts to begin .

As you can see on the pictures, the head is very light now without the 2x Nema 17 , i think i will never will be able to print with ninja flexfilaments like now. But it's so light that the quality of the print can be better , maybe i will print faster too .
Now , i've done electricals and design stuffs I need your help for the firmware/software thinks.
The new hot end have only 1x Thermistor and only 1x heat cardridge to make the hot end hot. Instead of 2X of each before.
And thoose are different than the leapfrog one. Calibration needed ?

Is in the Firmware than i need to change the calibration of the Heat cardridge and thermistor ?

Neat design! For your questions, just edit the pins.h file so that the left and right extruder use the same pinout for the heater and thermistor.

So, my setup works ! so fine so good

What i need to do now :

1- keeping the cold side colder for PLA
2- finding a way to create a cleaning nozzle at tool change.

It's work for easy things
And it's make things more easy !
so, i'm sure there is a way to modifying the Gcode with or without simplify3d to make some gradiant colors.

my idea was to make the 2 extruders motors running at the same time.
Each one at un percent of the extrusion multiplier.

So, if my extruder #1 T0 is black and T1 #2 is white.

To print black= T0 100% T1 0%
To print white= T0 0% T1 100%
To print medium grey = T0 50% T1 50%

Now i think we need to change this percent at each layer. with an automated tools it's could be easy.
But before, we need to know how to say at each layer how much percent of each color we want to blend. at wich speed each motor is running in fact .

Is someone intersted by help ?

best regards,