Airwolf axiom

[spineytoad]

Is there anyone using the new axiom printer, first time I tried to use s3d with it, the bed went down to the bottom and started trying to print in mid air, it also made no attempt to auto level, looks like I'm missing some g-code for the leveling.
Thanks

[JoeJ]

You just need to edit the starting script. Click on the Scripts tab and make sure you starting script contains a G28 and then G29 right after. There may be other changes too, but you can compare to other gcode files to see what's needed

[Cuajinais]

Had to rub it in didn't you?




How I envy you. I think you have the best "non-industrial" 3D printer available as of Sept 2015. Can I come over to your house to play?

[billyd]

Cool looking printer. I am anxious to hear how it works for you. Please come back after you've had a chance to run it through it paces and give us a review.

[dvdganon]

hi. i am also working with axiom. can someone tell me please how to configure the machin settings ?

[spineytoad]

I was able to add g-code to the scripts section in S3d, I can send you the scripts if you haven't figured it out yet. I really like the auto leveling of the printer and the fact it auto cleans the nozzle, I did set my g-code to clean it once more after it purges a little too much. I haven't used the astro print (web based) much. It does allow you to slice and upload g-code to the wolfbox and print from it's web interface, on that note, there is a web server in the Axiom (i'm not sure what hardware it is using) that will store uploaded g-code and send it for you to the vicki which is the original controller on the Hdx's and print that way. You can also use the SD card option, which due to the USB stalling periodically I need to use (I never had to use it for the last year I have been printing until I updated to 10). I like the bed size, I've had some larger prints to do lately and that has been perfect for the projects. The Vicki screen seems a bit slower than on the HDX model, they probably spent more time working on the wolfbox end of it, I was a bit disappointed with the interface speed, I'm actually going to bring that up with them. I was reminded how nice the bed leveling is when I had to manually level my HDx, you forget how fun that is if it is automatic! It came with wolfbite, the liquid that makes the parts stick to the glass bed and I can say that it does work, I'm able to do large diameter tubes with it where it doesn't warp at all with ABS, large parts with a solid base also don't warp, one smaller part popped of the bed about 4 inches while I was listening to it crackle as it releases, that startled me. I have yet to figure out the limits on it yet as far as to how many parts you can do before you have to clean it and re-apply, but what you get will last a long time. I'll post more as I use it.

[avluis]

I've had mine since the 30th of last month so I had a bit of a chance to play with it via the Vicki, USB, Wolfbox (this is what they use: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13707 ), and its online companion: Astroprint.
For those that want to know, or don't know already, they make use of the very latest RAMBo (1.3L I believe) from Ultimaker (and include the spare parts along with your printer, at least in my case).

If you want the nozzle cleaning, along with auto-leveling, the configuration files included with your USB drive will have the G-code needed in there, but this is what Astroprint uses (Airwolf 3D can update this on their end if needed):

Start G-Code:
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
M42 P6 S255 ; turn lights on
G21 ; metric values
G90 ; absolute positioning
M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ; start with the fan off
G92 E0 ; set extruder position to 0
G1 E-20 F125
G28 F200 ; home all
G1 Z0 F1200
G1 X20 Y228 F7000
G1 Z-2 F1200 ; lower to brush
G1 X138 Y226 F2000
G1 X40 Y228 F2000
G1 X138 Y226 F2000
G1 E-30 F125
G1 X40 Y228 F2000 ;
G1 X138 Y226 F2000
G1 X40 Y228 F2000
G1 X138 Y228 F2000
G1 E-35 F125
G1 X138 Y226 F2000
G1 X40 Y228 F2000
G1 X138 Y226 F2000
G1 Z-3 F1200
G1 X40 Y228 F2000 ;
G1 X138 Y226 F2000
G1 E-40 F125
G1 X40 Y228 F2000
G1 X138 Y228 F2000
G1 Z0 F1200
G28 X0 Y0
M204 S300 ; set accel for probing
G29
M204 S3500 ; set accel back to normal
G1 Z5 ; raise nozzle up 10mm
G1 E6 F100 ; extrude filament back into nozzle and 7mm more
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
M400 ; clear buffer
G4 S1 ; pause

End G-code:
M400
M104 S0 ; Hotend off
M140 S0 ; heated bed heater off (if you have it)
M107 ; fans off
G92 E0 ; set extruder to 0
G1 E-3 F300 ; retract a bit to relieve pressure
G28 X0 Y0 F8000 ; move to cooling positioning
G1 Z260 F1000 ; move to cooling positioning
M84 ; steppers off
G90 ; absolute positioning
M42 P6 S0

----
Note: you may need to modify the G-code above for use with S3D. Astroprint uses the CuraEngine, so the previous G-code is in that flavor.
----

The only issue I have had with it is the Wolf-bite holding on too well to the parts, which caused for two of my glass pieces to separate along with the part (first time I have had this happen with a 3D printer) - but that just shows how well that stuff works. Of course, they actually replaced my glass for free (accessories are not usually included in the warranty) - this was with ABS by the way, I have had 0 warps and 0 failed prints so far with this printer.
I do agree that the Vicki LCD is a bit slow, but between filament rolls, that usually doesn't bother me since I am not tinkering away at the printer (in contrast to my last 3D printer) and instead working on my designs.
Making use of the Wolfbox is painless, and really makes the printer shine in my opinion.

What about you guys, how are you linking yours?
Does Airwolf 3D typically release the source code for their printers (not the hex file to update, but the actual configuration files and Marlin source)?

Also, to the poster above, I was able to do about 3 full bed prints before I had to reapply Wolfbite to the bed - that thing is awesome.

[billyd]

I've actually had a piece of glass come up just using hairspray. I think this is probably a flaw in the glass rather than anything else. Microcracks that slowly creep over time and then when you pull a part off and it's in the wrong place at the wrong time, you get a cavity.

I have found this happens more often to thin glass beds in general, at least with my own experience. Maybe it was just a coincidence.

So how are you liking the Axiom print quality and speed? Is the printer blowing you away?

[avluis]

It is a nice change of pace from my usual 3D printer adventures - it feels like I am printing with a much more expensive machine than what it really is.

I don't know about blowing me away or anything, but it has met my every expectation so far.
Really looking forward to when they add dual extrusion to it around 2016.

Regarding the glass - is there reinforced glass out there that can withstand the torture of use in a 3D printer?
Or should I just cut myself plenty of glass?

[spineytoad]

So you guys have had the ceramic plate pull off with the part? I just had that happen twice, to two different ceramic plates, they are supposed to be sending two replacements and new wolfbite to replace the one that came with it, they feel it was to strong. What is odd is that I am still printing to a non chipped part of the plate and it hasn't done it again, the two times it did was with a large 4in sized washer type shape that was 1-2 mm thick. I bought some glass they use in fireplaces to try, I can't have it chipping all the time, that would get expensive if I have to start paying for using them less than 1 month. Let us know if you find a solution, I'll let you know how the new wolfbite works and how the new fireplace glass works.