Help with ABS curling when printed on support

[danielhenley]

Does anybody have any tips on how to keep abs from curling off of support? My abs stick just fine to my printer bed but the areas that are printed on Simplify3D's support curls off. I tried setting the support gaps to 0 and that didn't help.

My next test will be to turn up the support density really high, any other tips? ABS seems to stick better to the makerbot supports.

[Marshall]

I use a MakerGear M2, not a Bot...

But some things are still relative here.

Can you further describe "curling"? You can upload a photo to somewhere like Imgur.com and post the direct link.

I feel like you are trying to describe "drooping" across the bridge. But then again maybe not.

Makerbot uses a different support material than what you're printing with?

I don't know but from my standpoint on this from a common printing perspective, setting support resolution down to 1.5mm is about the lowest I've ever needed to go. Can you post your FFF file so I can examine what I see combined with the photo? I would bet this is an easy fix, probably a simple setting error. A support just has to be there, and the material will fall across onto it. It's going to have to do with bridging settings most likely. Typically speed value is roughly doubled across the bridge, extrusion value is set lower, such as 60-80% of the rest of print value (to elongate and pull a little tension across the bridge gap). A blast of ducted fan air with a custom printed duct or fan for your printer also will aid bridging quality as the material stiffens before drooping much if at all.

Hopefully "droop" is the problem I am addressing, as curling would be different forces playing along depending on what you actually mean here. Photos please!

[KC_703]

If you haven't, try turning off any cooling. ABS likes to contract as it cools... so too much may cause it to warp / curl.

You can try using the dense support option to help bonding at the object surface. Try two or three dense layers at 70% infill.

I'd continue to leave a 1 layer vertical separation and for horizontal offset use the width of your extrusion (if set to auto, then switch to manual to see the actual width). If you're printing at a layer height lower than .3 you may need more vertical separation layers.

[PinballGeorgio]

Using a Brim of about 20 layers did the anti warp trick here.

[Rebekah_harper]

what I have done is made some STL tools.

a disc and a bar. if I have a floating section, I add the bar and resize it to slightly into the part and small enough as to not be a pain to remove.

I add the disc to the base and set the thickness of it to 0.3mm but resize it to suit. I also add the disc to corners as I have issues in these areas too.

hope this helps.

becky

[danielhenley]

I use a MakerGear M2, not a Bot...

But some things are still relative here.

Can you further describe "curling"? You can upload a photo to somewhere like Imgur.com and post the direct link.

I feel like you are trying to describe "drooping" across the bridge. But then again maybe not.

Makerbot uses a different support material than what you're printing with?

Curling UP breaking away from the supports because the adhesion between the part and the support isn't strong enough--like when an ABS part curls up and away from the print bed when it doesn't stick well enough.

This isn't a problem with bridges, as they are anchored to the bed on both sides, it's only a problem on an outcropping that rests on supports (imagine printing an upside down L).

It seems to me that, unlike the ultra-fine makerbot supports which are securely adhered to the part , simplify's more robust supports rely on a slight gap to separate them from the part--which exists even when the "gap" setting is set to 0. This makes it so the part isn't firmly secured down and can curl up.

The next thing to try is a negative gap setting on the supports, but I'm not sure if that will work.