Ends on long piece lifting?

[kumaichi]

I'm trying to print a long rectangle (8.13"L x 2.5"D x 0.75"H) and the first couple of layers fine fine but at some point the ends start to lift up off the heated surface. I tried using hair spray and that did work better than nothing but it still lifted and it changes the dimensions of the part and the bottom surface is really rough. Is this part too narrow and long to be able to print correctly? Maybe I need to change the design?

I'm using a MakerGear M2 with the default M2 V4 configuration. The plate is heated to 70*C and the nozzle is running at 220*C.

Thanks for any suggestions,

Craig

Block

[CompoundCarl]

Did you try adding a brim? Just keep increasing the numbers of skirt outlines to make the brim really large until it holds the edges down

This has more info about it: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/tuto ... and-brims/

[dkightley]

An alternative...or even a supplement to a brim....is using "mouse ears", small two or three layer sacrificial discs that you place on the print bed just on the edge of your model, joined either by overlapping your model or by small connecting strips.

I have a set pre-made that look like mini table tennis bats that I use for persistent offending models! I think there's even a thread in the feature request section of the forum requesting mouse ears be available as an easy-to-add function.

[kumaichi]

Thanks for the suggestions! I received Simplify3D's weekly email yesterday concerning print quality and found the Brim feature so I'm going to try that first and see if it helps. If that doesn't help improve the lifting I'll add the mouse ears.

Gotta say, lots to learn about this but it's exciting!

Thanks again for the help, I'll report back my results

[kumaichi]

No joy with the Brim, the piece lifted tore the brim clean off the platform. Guess it's time to try the mouse ears. Going to do a search to see how others are using them.

Thanks again.

[dkightley]

Here's an example where I had to use mouse ears to stop curling:

A brim was not feasible due to mass of webs on the lower edge of each side of the part. I actually had to use both a raft AND mouse ears to anchor the ends down. the bottom of this part was actually around one third of the width you can see due to the webs. It did print reliably.....which was the important thing.

[Heutinck]

if your printing on glass, try the purple gluestick as well as a brim. I would also lower the bed temp a bit to about 50-60. there is probably too high a temp differential between the lower layers and the ones above it.

Tim

[kumaichi]

Well, I have made a little progress. The corners are still lifting but not as much as before. These are the changes I made. I added the mouse ears, sprayed the glass with hairspray and changed some of the setting in Simplify3D. I decreased the first two layers speed by 50% and didn't turn the extrusion fan on until layer 5. This seemed to help, any other things I could try to keep the corners stuck to the glass?

Thanks again for the help.

[billyd]

You can try a thicker brim. But it's harder to cut off.

[kumaichi]

I actually tried that, I made one that had 15 layers and yes, it was difficult to remove and left a jagged edge around the bottom.

One question on the mouse ears, how thick should those be? Is there a percentage or ratio to the height of the part. My part is 0.750" thick and I made my mouse ears 0.100" thick, should I maybe increase the size of the mouse ears, would that help?