Simplify3D User Forum

Hey all,

Wondering if anyone has had this sort of visual difference between layer lines on different sides of a print. I am using a fairly large nozzle (0.8 at 0.6125 layer height)


The problem


Not the same print but the same problem on different prints






The print itself is two 20mm calibration cube towers diagonal from each other with no infill and 1 outside layer and the issue happens after a retract and move it looks like. I attached the fff profile if anyone wants to check out the print settings further or how its printing. The side with the writing is the front of the print where the mouse is in the simulation.









Some of my my findings
-this doesnt happen in vase mode so im pretty certain it is my retractions settings
-I spent a fair bit of time chekcing everything mechanically on the printer, loose belts, wobbling nozzle, proper filament feed

At the beginning of the weekend my retraction settings were really bad and I did fix a bunch of other noticeable issues but I cant seem to effect this in any positive way

Yours tip and thoughts are welcome,
Thanks

Quick summary of my settings if you dont have time to spin up the factory file

Retraction distance .75 (at .25 I get bad stringyness)
Extra restart distance .25 (at 0 I get slight gaps after the retract)
Retraction Vertical Lift OFF
Retraction speed 3600
Coasting distance OFF
Wipe distance 3

Only retract crossing open spaces ON
Force retraction between layers OFF
Perform retraction during wipe YES
Min travel for retract OFF
Only wipe extruder for outer most OFF

I would suggest starting here: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... e-of-print

CompoundCarl wrote:I would suggest starting here: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... e-of-print

That great visual troubleshooter is always my initial goto and I did try every solution posed for this situation.

Inconsistent extrusion
-tried 2 different filaments each from different brands and which have printed fine on other printers without banding

Temperature variaton
-I monitored S3Ds temperature graphs during a print with no fan, fans on at 30, 60 and 100
-redid PID autotune

Mechanical issues
-retensioned belts
-tightened extruder to eliminate wobble
-somewhat ruled out since the weird bands only exist on one side of the print

Why are the settings in the factory file you uploaded all different to the screenshots?

The best way of providing your settings so someone can give advice is to attach a factory file based on the part you are printing and the settings you used to do the print you are having issues with. Screenshots of the settings pages are then not required.

dkightley wrote:Why are the settings in the factory file you uploaded all different to the screenshots?

The best way of providing your settings so someone can give advice is to attach a factory file based on the part you are printing and the settings you used to do the print you are having issues with. Screenshots of the settings pages are then not required.

Apologies for that, I had continued to experiment and didnt realize I was posting the outdated settings. I updated things and thanks for the tip I will definitely do that next time. Do people ever post the xml text of their FFF files for people who might not want to bother loadinf up the fff profile?

With the new upload and reflective settings I am getting the same banding but a much cleaner corner

Looks like the thin wall combined with the tallish layers means that the bead might not be laying down directly on top of the previous layer, and is being pushed off to alternating sides on layer start. Would explain why it doesn't happen in vase mode. Try doing this with the same nozzle but lower layer heights and/or more perimeters and see how it comes out.

Update on this:

I tried with lower layer heights and did not see a difference, I then changed nozzles and saw a bit of improvement during the initial print but then the second print it was back full force. Ive decided to bite the bullet and move away from the greg wade extruder to an E3D titan. Hopefully it was an extruder issue and not software.

Do people ever post the xml text of their FFF files for people who might not want to bother loadinf up the fff profile?

Just to clarify what I said cos I wasn't clear now I look back...

If you're looking for suggestions on what changes to make to improve print quality, it's ever so useful to attach a .factory file of the offending item. File dropdown==>Save factory file. This download can then be easily loaded by other users and everything...the settings, the model, support, etc....can be viewed easily. Xml or text listings and screenshots of individual settings pages are much harder to interpret.

Old post I know. If the printer is a Prusa I3 or similar setup with lead screws or more likely threaded rod for the Z axis I would suggest that this banding may be caused by a bent screw. If you have guides at the top of the screws connecting them to the frame either remove them or widen the holes. The frame should guide the carriage, a bent screw can cause oscillations as it turns. If you have a machine with threaded rod and are not using lead screws I would also suggest upgrading.