Print Sticking to Bed

[GregoryWilets]

My designs adhere so tightly to the bed that it is very difficult to remove them. Any ideas?

[brian442]

Increase the global Z-axis offset

[wirlybird]

Yup, that is basically what I was saying in the other forum. Look at your first layer and see how much squish. Also check that S3D is at 120 for first layer height for a .2 layer on this printer.

When I do a level on this one I get it to barely have any drag on the paper with the nozzle. The nice thing is when you get this one set it will stay really good and require little adjustment.

[gwhite]

My designs adhere so tightly to the bed that it is very difficult to remove them. Any ideas?

You don't say what the bed material is, or what filament. Both make a huge difference.

My printer (MakerGear M2E) has a glass plate with polyimide (Kapton) film on one side. I never pry my prints off, because that rapidly damages the Kapton.

For PLA, I can usually just use the polyimide surface. When the print is done, I let the bed cool to room temperature. I remove the glass, and tap the print sideways with a wooden stick to knock it loose. Another technique I've discovered recently is to hit it with "spray freeze" (aerosol duster turned upside down). The thermal shock helps to pop the print loose, and it seems to be helped by capillary action sucking the liquid under the print, which then evaporates rapidly. It almost seems to lift the print off.

Using a thin film of Elmer's glue stick gives REALLY good adhesion to the Kapton, but it is very difficult to get the prints off. I've even tried cycling the glass & print in & out of the freezer to get things loose. One treatment with glue stick will last through many many prints.

The other approach I've tried is hairspray (Garnier Fructis Style Sheer Set Extreme Hold) on the glass. A thin coat is all that is required, and the best part is that once the print has cooled down, it is VERY easy to pop off the glass. It has to be refreshed every couple prints.

I've had a lot of issues with larger prints warping, and improving the bed adhesion helps. HOWEVER, I've found that backing off on the cooling fan does a good job of fixing the warping problems, and I can get away without extreme bed adhesion methods like the glue stick.