TT_Vert
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2018 12:48 am

Strange wall separation question

So I've got a print that for some reason it seems the wall is not actually bonded to the floor next to it. The odd thing is if I print it with this feature pointing down instead of up it doesn't occur however given the design that is not a good way to print this object. With that said, is there something I can modify/change withing simplify3D to mitigate this? I am printing on 1.75mm PLA w/ a maker select. Given everything is equal but the orientation I'm not sure my print speed/etc. are worth mentioning. Looking at the layer it seems that there is no overlap between the wall and the infill there but it looks like there is in the one pic w/ it facing up, or maybe it just flowed together due to gravity?

This is the object printed facing down w/ support
Facing down w/ support
Facing down w/ support
This is the object printed facing up
Facing down w/ supports
Facing down w/ supports
Tool path on this layer
layer.jpg
TT_Vert
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2018 12:48 am

Re: Strange wall separation question

Is there much traffic on this forum? Am I better off getting my support elsewhere?
blackbird2016
Posts: 134
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2017 1:24 am

Re: Strange wall separation question

A somewhat rough surface at the down facing side with the supports I would consider quite normal.
There in general seems to be some kind of underextrusion considering the not closed top layers.
Once that dialed in properly those layers printed on supports will get better. Kind of...
TT_Vert
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2018 12:48 am

Re: Strange wall separation question

I had played w/ the extrusion multiplier in the last few days and also on the fly while printing and it seems that the 90% multiplier provided the best results w/o some surface layer bumpiness. The more i increase the flow using the ext. multiplier the rougher the first layer got. I currently have my first layer height (.300) at 90%, i wonder if bumping that to maybe 100% and then increasing my extrusion multiplier would help w/ that? This would give me the a bit less material on that first layer and a bit more extrusion on further layers. One thing I find odd and maybe you could comment on is that after the two supports i've S3D (fast honeycomb, rectiliner) I have a fairly rough to player. People say to mitigate this w/ more layers. Well I ran a 5 layer top layer (it was a larger layer (about 150x 100) and it is still a bit rough to the finger, not bad but to the eye it doesn't have that line line by line extrusion on used to seeing. On the outer walls which are 5mm ish thick I do see those lines you typically see on a top layer. I'll get a pic to show what I mean in a bit

Oh I should also mention I've played w/ my print speeds quite a bit and perhaps a bit of under extrusion w/ the much higher speeds is the cause of the roughness? I could always create a layer FFF profile for all visible layers where I slow it down. It'd be nice actually if 3DP had an option to make changes to visible top layers w/o me having to customize them layer by layer myself.

Dave
horst.w
Posts: 861
Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2014 5:00 pm

Re: Strange wall separation question

Dave,

if you attache the factory-file someone can help.
I have print enough nuts holes with a quality factore of 1000. There is anything wrong on your settings.


Regards
horst.w
GER
TT_Vert
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2018 12:48 am

Re: Strange wall separation question

You'll probably laugh at it but if you're in the mood for some humor I'll send it over. I'm not familiar w/ factory files but it appears it includes the print as well. This was a different print but you just want to see the settings right and those would be in this file as well?

FYI, including a few pics of the top layer extrusion when atop infill. Not atop infill it looks beautiful.


Dave
Attachments
This is the lid after 3 layers atop 20 fast honeycomb infill
This is the lid after 3 layers atop 20 fast honeycomb infill
5 .300 layers atop fast honeycomb.  First layer is very rough but it gets significantly better by layer 3 and probably looks as good as 5 does.
5 .300 layers atop fast honeycomb. First layer is very rough but it gets significantly better by layer 3 and probably looks as good as 5 does.
PiEnclosure.factory
(104.08 KiB) Downloaded 234 times
TT_Vert
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2018 12:48 am

Re: Strange wall separation question

Since i can only do 3 pics per post, here are a few more.
Attachments
Underside of that little raised issue.  Usually the second layer flattens this to the point it isn't visible but I've been using 30C printbed to help print removal and reduce elephant foot.  xaxis offset didn't help there.
Underside of that little raised issue. Usually the second layer flattens this to the point it isn't visible but I've been using 30C printbed to help print removal and reduce elephant foot. xaxis offset didn't help there.
Another angle of my PLA little oscilloscope.
Another angle of my PLA little oscilloscope.
Normal layers pre infill lay down great.  Still trying to figure out these triangle wave cyclic adhesion issues as well. Very strange.
Normal layers pre infill lay down great. Still trying to figure out these triangle wave cyclic adhesion issues as well. Very strange.
horst.w
Posts: 861
Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2014 5:00 pm

Re: Strange wall separation question

NO, I don't deride about you,

I have similar problems with my new Anet A 8 (2nd printer) to solve.
Because I have realy no problem like this with my MANKATI, no settings may cause it, its a problem of the different filament and / or hardware, clearly in accordance with S3D. I must say, I was not able to print out more than 2 or 3 really successful prints with the A8. The rest was waste.

Your factory-file
generally I say, to quick, to hot, LayerHigh 0,30 mm will never generate a flat surface, cooling 100% is very strong
The splitting into 2 processes is not needed, because therefore the FirstLayer settings existe.
Over all, the Multiplier value of 0,90 seems very deep for PLA, there will be not enough material to close the gaps between the lines.

Try out decent settings by printing cubes or other small objects, such a great groundplate and thin walls with bridging are not qualified for experiments.

H.
TT_Vert
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2018 12:48 am

Re: Strange wall separation question

my test cubes come out perfect and look perfect. I did test my extrusion rate calculating distance vs. step and it was 4% off so I wasn't too worried but with that I did try to increase extrusion multiplier to 1.0 and it was over extruding and globbing. Keep in mind the 1st layer is 3.00x.90 so 2.70mm and it does generally lie down flat, it's just a few spots here and there that don't. if it was a leveling issue I'd think it'd continue on, not just does it in the middle of a few lines and then stop unless the bed had dips in it which I doubt. Many people use .300 layer height w/o issue and it allows me to get the print off w/o prying too much. It definitely is quick but everything seems to print out very nice. I was just testing w/ two processes to see if I could make a difference given my fast speed at layer 2 and up. I just mitigated that by reducing first layer speed to 33%. I have played w/ filament temp from 200 to 230. The box states it should be between 205-225 so I'm right in that window. I was printing at 200 but I really liked the quality and bonding a bit better at 220. i may print that temp tower to see how it looks there too. I'm cooling at 100% on second layer on, what do you suggest? If it was a cooling issue why would layer 2 always lie flat w/ the fan on at 100%?

Thanks for the input.
Dave
horst.w
Posts: 861
Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2014 5:00 pm

Re: Strange wall separation question

TT_Vert wrote: ...
Keep in mind the 1st layer is 3.00x.90 so 2.70mm ...

What do you mean with this?
The First Layer is always the real first layer. In the Tab Layer you have set 3 top and 3 bottom layers but you stop printing of the process on 0.3 mm.
It is odd while the remaining process has also 3 bottom layers, but your printer starts printing infill with the 3rd layer of all.
I guess that is one of the reasons for this mismatch. Delete all and use only one process. And if you want to use a second one, than only add a new one. It will be copied from process 1 named process 2.
The number of bottom and top layer must be in accordance between the processes. Normally you dont need top layers for the first process and no bottom layers for the following process (that maybe different for some special objects).

Cooling:
If the air mouth of the object cooling fan of your printer is also poor as the mine on the Anet, than you blow from only one side and extremely against the nozzle. The Anet owns a radial fan what is really strong and the nozzle is cooling down.

H.

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