I had a part fail last night because the nozzle caught on significant blobbing and the build plate came loose. I figured it was too much outline overlap, so I dropped that and it didn't resolve the issue, I stopped the print today because I saw that it was going to fail soon. Should I decrease the extrusion multiplier? I need 100% infill for the part for reasons other than structural, so please don't suggest that. I have attached an image of the part that I stopped today to show the blobbing, as well as the factory file, I am printing on a Raise 3d N2 plus dual, but I am only using the left extruder.
Have you gone through an extruder calibration to ensure the proper number of steps/mm? One of my printers came out of the box incorrectly calibrated. I'm glad I went through this process.
Check out this video for information: https://youtu.be/YUPfBJz3I6Y His instructions are great. Tom has a lot of helpful videos.
What you need to do is run a square vase-mode test part with your extrusion multiplier set to 1.0.
Measure the wall thickness and compare it to your extrusion width set in the slicer.
It's a process you need to go through for every time you change material or setup. Fortunately a vase mode square prints quickly. Extrusion multiplier is not a trial and error thing.
isn't extrusion width set by the nozzle diameter?
Edit: also, I only work with one material, do I need to re-do the extrusion multiplier for each spool?
zemlin wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:44 am
You would want to repeat if you change layer height, temperature, or make a significant speed change.
what if I have significant underspeeds in my profile? I don't typically mess with temperature or layer height, but the outer shell is a 50% underspeed on that profile, should I calibrate the multiplyer to the underspeed or to the full speed?
I haven't found this to be a big deal. I typically run at 50% on solid infill and outer perimeters. Speed might not be big factor. Haven't done a study on that. I just run a new calibration when I'm changing setup.