One problem I had is with Marvin's belly and bumm... When it's printing this overhang the thin layer simply curles up. This disappears after 10 layers or so. Slic3r had this problem too, but it was worse. How can I prevent this?
Simplify3D vs. Slic3r Marvin
Here's my Marvin printed (in ColorFabb Silver PLA) with Simplify3D and Slic3r respectively. Simplify3D does a MUCH better job. The randomising of the outliner start is causing somewhat of a more "messy" look in the easy layers in the Simplify3D print, but other than that it looks really neat!
One problem I had is with Marvin's belly and bumm... When it's printing this overhang the thin layer simply curles up. This disappears after 10 layers or so. Slic3r had this problem too, but it was worse. How can I prevent this?
One problem I had is with Marvin's belly and bumm... When it's printing this overhang the thin layer simply curles up. This disappears after 10 layers or so. Slic3r had this problem too, but it was worse. How can I prevent this?
Re: Simplify3D vs. Slic3r Marvin
Curved bodies like this and a ball for example are always difficult prints around the bottom for me personally as well. I find with PLA the best ways to combat it:
1. Good even cooling fan(s)
Directed at the bottom of the nozzle. This can be difficult depending on the type of hot end you have as the thermistors on the hot end's with the large heating blocks may be sensitive to the breeze caused by the fan. This will cause a drop in temperature and most likely your firmware issuing a cold extrusion state (where it won't extrude but still go on with the GCode, will look like that top part of your slic3r marvin right above its ears). If you can get good cooling, the goal is to cool and solidify the liquid plastic as soon as possible.
2. Lower printing temperature
Will vary depending on manufacturer of PLA you use. I'm a huge fan of UltiMachine's PLA and usually print it ~180 degrees celcius. Printing it at lower temperatures will give it a good chance of cooling and solidifying quicker. You want to find a good temperature for your plastic.
Those are the 2 main ones I try to adhere to to get the best results. If a part is really giving me issue, I may tweak with other settings such as not optimized printing, which on smaller parts sometimes the gcode will go over a spot that hasn't cooled yet since it's the most optimal tool path, but giving it a non-optimized tool paths will allow for better cooling aroudn recently laid plastic. Also, the Z-Life feature can help on parts with short layer times, such as a thin cylinder. The additional time added from Z-lift can help parts cool before printing over them.
1. Good even cooling fan(s)
Directed at the bottom of the nozzle. This can be difficult depending on the type of hot end you have as the thermistors on the hot end's with the large heating blocks may be sensitive to the breeze caused by the fan. This will cause a drop in temperature and most likely your firmware issuing a cold extrusion state (where it won't extrude but still go on with the GCode, will look like that top part of your slic3r marvin right above its ears). If you can get good cooling, the goal is to cool and solidify the liquid plastic as soon as possible.
2. Lower printing temperature
Will vary depending on manufacturer of PLA you use. I'm a huge fan of UltiMachine's PLA and usually print it ~180 degrees celcius. Printing it at lower temperatures will give it a good chance of cooling and solidifying quicker. You want to find a good temperature for your plastic.
Those are the 2 main ones I try to adhere to to get the best results. If a part is really giving me issue, I may tweak with other settings such as not optimized printing, which on smaller parts sometimes the gcode will go over a spot that hasn't cooled yet since it's the most optimal tool path, but giving it a non-optimized tool paths will allow for better cooling aroudn recently laid plastic. Also, the Z-Life feature can help on parts with short layer times, such as a thin cylinder. The additional time added from Z-lift can help parts cool before printing over them.
Re: Simplify3D vs. Slic3r Marvin
in addition to what tenk said, when printing things with angled overhangs that you dont want to use support on change your setting to do inside perimeter first then the outside last. you can also lower your layer height a hair and also bump up your extrustion width just a touch. normal overhangs you get about 45 deg but beyond that support is needed. with all the above you should be able to squeeze a little more out of it.
Re: Simplify3D vs. Slic3r Marvin
You can always group up all of the start points to a specific location if you think that looks cleaner. No need to use the random start points if you don't want to.
To change this, click on the Layer tab and look at the start point options in the lower left. Use the "start points closest to specific location" option to align them all for a cleaner look. You even get to pick the XY location where they are aligned, so you could hide them on the back of the model or something like that.
To change this, click on the Layer tab and look at the start point options in the lower left. Use the "start points closest to specific location" option to align them all for a cleaner look. You even get to pick the XY location where they are aligned, so you could hide them on the back of the model or something like that.
Re: Simplify3D vs. Slic3r Marvin
You may also want to try a lower layer height. I find I can frequently get between 50-55 degrees before needing support with 0.1mm printing at 195.
Re: Simplify3D vs. Slic3r Marvin
I agree there are some things S3D is great for, but I think you have some issues with your Slic3r settings. I can't imagine nobody with Slic3r can make a good marvin.
